Malt braised beef navel with grilled spring onions, white beans and asparagus. This was the missus’s and this was the stand-out dish of the night. This is the single best piece of meat either of us has had anywhere in more than a year*. Yes, the economy of fine dining is more and more presenting yesterday’s proletarian cuts in high-end venues with prices to match but when it tastes this good I find it hard to complain. (The navel is the traditional pastrami cut.) The beef, we were told, is braised and then pressed and finished on the grill—the texture and flavour were exquisite and everything else on the plate was perfectly complementary.

*Alas, it’s already off the current menu (which, by the way, looks fantastic!).