But even the more formal places still cater to people who want to eat some chaat on the go. This picture, taken in 2005, is of the outdoor gol-gappa counter at one of the outposts of Nathu’s, which is one of the venerable sit-down chaat and snack houses in New Delhi. The men at these outdoor Nathu’s counters wear gloves. Hygiene, after all, is what the formal places offer over the streets.