I’ll be starting the month with a week of reviews of brandies. First up, an armagnac. It’s been more than three years since my last armagnac review. Frankly, I have not been drinking very much armagnac in the last few years. I’m not sure why—I do have some nice bottles on my shelves. To make up for this neglect, I have for you today a review of the oldest armagnac on said shelves: a 50 yo Darroze blend (Les Grand Assemblages is their term). I’ve actually had this bottle open (and preserved with inert gas) for quite a few years now. Indeed, I had been under the impression that I had reviewed it right after I’d bought and opened it. A good thing I checked as the bottle is now well into the last quarter and I am unlikely to ever purchase a 50 yo armagnac again. Now, for those of you who don’t follow booze pricing, I should say that back when I bought this, it cost less than most official release 25 yo single malt whiskies, and I’m sure it still does by quite a margin. Indeed, this year’s Diageo Special Release slate includes an NAS Mortlach for only a little bit less than I paid for this 50 yo several years ago. I’ve enjoyed it a lot as I’ve dipped into it over the years and I’m glad I finally remembered to take some notes before it’s all gone.

Darroze 50 (42%; from my own bottle)

Nose: Rich apricot with dried orange peel and brandied figs. Some dry oak in the background along with leather. On the second sniff there’s some dark honey and maple syrup. The oak becomes more mentholated as it sits even as the whole gets earthier.

Palate: A little thinner on the palate on arrival but a thinner version of everything on the nose. Rich texture and a decent bite at 42%. Fuller on the second sip with more of the fruit poking through—a little sweeter now with raisins in the mix. More oak here too with time and then more of the fruit (some peach joining the apricot).

Finish: Medium-long. The oak is in the lead here, getting a bit spicier as it goes (and picking up hints of sandalwood). More fruit here too with time but the oak remains the top note.

Comments: Despite the oak’s prominence—and it’s never close to being overbearing—the pleasures of this old blend are delicate. The fruit has definitely faded a little as the bottle has stayed open but it’s still very good. People who like big, bold armagnac will likely find this a a bit lacking but it’s a nice brandy to spend a good bit of time with.

Rating: 89 points.