This whisky is obviously not from the stash of long-accumulated bottles that I am supposed to be opening, drinking and reviewing these days on the blog. It’s just that I wasn’t able to keep myself from picking up a bottle when I saw it at our local Costco last week. I’ve quite enjoyed the preceding Offerman Editions of Lagavulin 11 and so it seemed to be a good bet. As you may recall, the very first Offerman Edition—which was released in 2019, I think—did not have any cask complications associated with it. The second edition—which came out in 2021, I think—received a Guinness cask finish. Meanwhile, the third edition featured maturation in casks that had been shaved down and re-charred. I didn’t like the third one quite as much as the first two but all have been interesting variations on the Lagavulin profile and not gratuitous celebrity cash-ins. The fourth edition—only just released in the US—sees the whisky get a rum finish for eight months. Let’s see how it compares to the others. Continue reading
Category Archives: 85-89 points
Bowmore 15, 1992 (Douglas Laing)
No, I haven’t already rolled back my commitment to slow the pace of my whisky reviewing and to restrict it only to bottles that have lain unopened for years in my stash. It’s only that I still have a few samples left over from before I left for Bombay in early January and I may as well get through all of them as well. And so here’s a Bowmore 15. This was distilled in 1992 and bottled in 2007 from a refill hogshead by Douglas Laing in their Old Malt Cask series. Back when this came out a lot of whisky geeks were still very wary about Bowmores distilled in the early 1990s. This was on account of the proximity to the long problematic preceding decade at the distillery. As I’ve noted before on the blog, my random sampling suggests that by the early 1990s most of those problems had been worked out. Indeed, I’ve had quite a few rather nice indie Bowmores distilled in the early 1990s. That’s not to say, of course, that there aren’t casks from that period that still bore/bear traces of the major problems of the distillate in the 1980s, particularly a strong soapy note. Let’s hope this cask is not one of those. When teenaged bourbon cask Bowmore is good it’s very good indeed, with that unique mix of smoke, fruit, florals and coastal notes. Let’s see where this one falls on the spectrum. Continue reading
Littlemill 23, 1990 (Archives)
This week’s review is of a Littlemill. As I’ve noted before, Littlemill didn’t have the best reputation when it was a going concern. Indeed, when I first started getting interested in malt whisky as something other than an occasional indulgence, the official 12 yo—pretty much all that was easily available then—was one you learned to stay away from (though I didn’t think it was that bad when I finally tried it). As with so many other distilleries though, the distillery’s reputation improved after it closed, when older single casks began to become available from independent bottlers. In the early-mid 2010s, in particular, a number of 20+ yo casks filled in the late 1980s to the early 1990s showed up on the market that put the distillate in a very different, very fruity light. A number of these casks were bottled by Whiskybase under their Archives label. This bourbon cask 23 yo, distilled in 1990 was one of the first (though not, I think, the very first—there was one in the inaugural Archives release as well). As with so many bottles I purchased in those years, I’ve had it sitting on my shelves for a long time now. I’m glad to finally open it and am looking forward to drinking it down over the next few weeks. Continue reading
Indri, Trini — The Three Wood
Hey look, it’s a whisky review. As I said on April 1, I’m going to be posting far fewer whisky (and other booze) reviews going forward. The goal is to focus on drinking down my own collection of bottles and not on reviewing as many whiskies as I can. These two goals are not compatible, in case you’re wondering. Anyway, my review today is not of a whisky that was in my collection but of one I drank quite a bit of in my recent travels. I first purchased a bottle of this Indri after arrival in Bombay. I liked it so much as I drank it down over those five weeks that I purchased another bottle from duty free that I drank down over five weeks in Seoul. And then I purchased a third bottle that I drank part of in Delhi and left behind in my father’s bar. Yes, I thought it was a very good whisky, especially for the price. I was shocked, however, to learn in Delhi of the company’s controversial ownership. Frankly, it’s put me off the whisky more than a little. You may be wondering what I’m on about. Here’s the story. Continue reading
Kilchoman 10, 2006, for Clauso & Friends
One more review to close out the week in Islay whiskies and the month in whisky reviews. Like Monday’s Bowmore and Wednesday’s Ardbeg, this Kilchoman is an official release. It is not, however, one that was widely available: it was a single cask bottled for a private group, one of several casks from 2006 and 2007 that were privately bottled. The cask was a bourbon barrel. Bourbon barrels always make me worry about the possibility of too much vanilla etc. in the whisky, but, on the other hand, I do also really like bourbon cask Kilchoman; and so I’m also quite looking forward to this one. Let’s see where it falls.
Kilchoman 10, 2006 (57.9%; for Clauso & Friends; bourbon barrel 112/2006; from a bottle split)
Nose: A big wave of peat off the top, and it’s a mix of phenolic notes with charred woodsmoke and toasted cereals. On the second sniff there’s ink and more coastal notes below that (kelp, brine). Continues in this vein with some added sweetness (a touch of creme brulee). A few drops of water pull out quite a bit of citronella and meld it with the medicinal notes and the creme brulee. Continue reading
Ardbeg 12, 1999, “Galileo”
I said on Monday that I’d be closing out the month with a week of reviews of single malt whiskies. I forgot to say that they’d all be Islay whiskies. On Monday I reviewed a relatively recently released Bowmore: the second release of the Bowmore Vault Edition. Today, I have a review of an Ardbeg released almost 12 years ago: the Ardbeg Galileo. This was Ardbeg’s special release for 2012, back when Ardbeg’s Feis Ile releases had just begun to take up residence in the realm of the ludicrous. The silly story attached to the Galileo was that a small amount of the whisky that went into it was sent into space at the end of 2011, purportedly to see how well it would mature in zero gravity conditions. Because that naturally was and remains a very relevant question for any contemporary distillery: as you know, we are on the verge of running out of gravity on Earth. Well, at least we can be secure in the knowledge that a corner of Islay will be prepared. It was also a controversial release among a sector of whisky geeks then on account of the ex-marsala cask content. This was clearly also well before proliferating cask folly made marsala cask maturation seem positively old-fashioned. Continue reading
La Luna, Ensamble
And here’s a third La Luna to close out this week of La Luna mezcals. Unlike, Monday’s and Wednesday’s bottles, this one is not made from a single variety of agave but is a blend or ensamble of three. Two are Tequilana and Manso Sahuayo (the varietals Monday and Wednesday’s mezcals were distilled from) and the third is Cupreata. This bottle, despite having a black label, is different, by the way, from the original “black label” with which La Luna launched, which was 100% Cupreata. I wouldn’t mind getting my hands on some of that to try blending my own ensamble with different proportions of the three constituents. Anyway, let’s see what this one is like.
La Luna, Ensamble (46.12%; blend of Manso Sahuayo, Cupreata and Tequilana; from my own bottle)
Nose: A fairly balanced opening with some lime in the high notes, some vegetal bitterness in the low and a fair bit of sweeter fruit and a bit of smoke in the middle (charred pineapple). On subsequent sniffs it’s quite savoury. A few drops of water and…it doesn’t really change very much. Continue reading
La Luna, Manso Sahuayo
Mezcal week rolls on. You may recall that I am reviewing three mezcals from La Luna this week. On Monday I reviewed Lot 63 of their Tequilana. Today I have for you a review of Lot 23 of their Manso Sahuayo. Unlike Tequilana aka Blue Weber this is not a well-known agave variety or one that is in wide use. As per Mezcal Reviews it is an unclassified variety. I’m not sure if it’s found outside of Michoacán. It grows wild there but the plants used for La Luna’s mezcal are apparently cultivated. I have no idea what the typical yield from this variety is or what the characteristics of mezcal made from it are. It goes without saying that it is completely new to me and I’m curious to see what it’s like.
La Luna, Manso Sahuayo (48.51%, Lot 23; from my own bottle)
Nose: Less “green” and acidic than the Tequilana; quite a bit more earthy from the get-go, with a lot of decomposed leaves and damp earth. As it sits there’s some dill and some pine, and then some fruit begins to peep out (charred pineapple). With more time still, some savoury notes emerge (light ham brine). A touch of water and the lime and savoury notes expand a little. Continue reading
La Luna, Tequilana
It’s been a few weeks of nothing but whisky reviews. Let’s do another week of mezcal. This week’s reviews will all be of releases by La Luna. Based in the mountains of Michoacán, La Luna produces mezcal from a range of agave types and seems to be quite widely available in the US. I base this latter statement on the fact that their mezcals are easy to find in Minnesota, and ours is not a state where a lot of specialty booze is easily spotted on shelves. You can find out more about the company here. The first one I am reviewing this week is Lot 63 of their Tequilana made from Blue Weber agave and bottled at 48.51% (the abv varies by lot number). This is the same agave that is used in the production of tequila. You may have encountered the statement, “all tequila is mezcal but not all mezcal is tequila”; well, this mezcal may effectively be a tequila—though unlike most tequilas this is made in an artisanal manner with the agave cooked in ovens and very long fermentation times and so on. Let’s see what it’s like. Continue reading
Ben Nevis 24, 1996 (Single Malts of Scotland)
Ben Nevis week has so far featured two young casks from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Monday’s 9 yo was from a first-fill hogshead; Wednesday’s 8 yo spent its last three years in a second-fill oloroso hogshead. Here to close out the week now is another bourbon hogshead, this time from the Single Malts of Scotland. This is older than the previous two combined. It was distilled in 1996 and bottled in 2021. As per Whiskybase, the bottlers seem to have got their hands on a large parcel of these 1996 casks of proximate age bottled across both their Single Malts of Scotland and Whisky Trail lines. This one was bottled for the American market. Let’s see what it’s like.
Ben Nevis 24, 1996 (48.8%; Single Malts of Scotland; hogshead 1730; from a bottle split)
Nose: Everything Ben Nevis: salted nuts, powdered ginger, Makrut lime, a hint of mineral peat, sweet floral notes. Continues along these lines, with the fruit becoming more acidic as it goes. With water the acid recedes and there’s more floral sweetness. Continue reading
Ben Nevis 8, 2012 (SMWS 78.53)
Ben Nevis week started on Monday with a 9 yo from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society; it continues today with a 8 yo from the same bottler. Monday’s 9 yo was from a first-fill hogshead. Today’s 8 yo, dubbed “Death in the Afternoon” by the society’s tasting panel, also started out in a bourbon cask but after five years was transferred to a 2nd-fill oloroso hogshead. So probably more of a double maturation than a finish. I do enjoy bourbon cask Ben Nevis a lot—as the less assertive wood lets the distillate’s idiosyncratic character take centerstage. But I’m not opposed to a good sherry cask either. Let’s see if this is one of those.
Ben Nevis 8, 2012 (60%; SMWS 78.53; 2nd-fill oloroso hogshead finish; from a bottle split)
Nose: Rubber gaskets, roasted malt, orange peel and that nutty-beany thing. On the second sniff the citrus begins to brighten and come through to the top. Gets more mineral as it goes. As it sits the citrus and the mineral notes blend into something like orange soda with a Dispirin tablet dissolved in it. Not much change with water. Continue reading
Ben Nevis 9, 2012 (SMWS 78.59)
Okay, Ben Nevis to start the month. First up is a young one from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, bottled after 9 years in a first-fill hogshead. They gave it the name “Burning berries”, which is both downright prosaic by their usual whimsical standards and also, I must say, promising. Let’s see if that promise is kept.
Ben Nevis 9, 2012 (57.8%; SMWS 78.59; first-fill hogshead; from a bottle split)
Nose: Quite closed at first, with none of that Ben Nevis funk in evidence. After a bit of airing some fruit begins to emerge: lime, tart-sweet apple; some wet concrete as well. Opens up further as it sits: the lime expands and here finally is some of that Ben Nevis powdered ginger and yeasty dough; a bit of roasted malt in there too. With a few drops of water there’s a fair bit of vanilla and cream but the lime is still quite strong (and mixed in with some floral sweetness). Continue reading
Glenlossie 9, 2008 (Signatory for Binny’s)
Here to close out the month in booze reviews is another Speyside malt, and another bottled from a hogshead by Signatory for Binny’s in Chicago (see here for Monday’s Mortlach). Let’s get right to it.
Glenlossie 9, 2008 (59.2%; Signatory for Binny’s; hogshead 10520; from a bottle split)
Nose: A lovely fresh mix of honey, lemon, cereals, toasted oak and a bit of freshly cut grass. On the second sniff the lemon is joined by tart-sweet apple and some pineapple. As it sits, there’s sweeter fruit (peach). , A few drops of water and the peach expands, picking up some Korean pear.
Palate: Comes in as indicated by the nose but in a brighter, more acidic avatar. Hot but approachable at full strength; oily texture. The fruit gets sweeter here too with time. Continues in this tasty vein. Okay, let’s see what water does for it. It pushes the acid back a bit and emphasizes the sweeter fruit and the oak. Continue reading
Mortlach 11, 2009 (Signatory for Binny’s)
After weeks of reviews of Islay whiskies, rums and mezcals, let’s close out the month with a couple of Speyside malts. First up, a young bourbon cask Mortlach bottled by Signatory for Binny’s in Chicago. Mortlach in its official incarnation is known for sherry cask-matured whisky and that’s also the guise in which it usually shows up from indies as well. And so I’m always happy to try bourbon cask versions. Let’s get right to this one.
Mortlach 11, 2009 (55.1%; Signatory for Binny’s; hogshead 306532; from a bottle split)
Nose: Honey, toasted cereals, lemon, toasted oak, dried leaves. On the second and third sniff the toasted cereal moves towards heavily charred toast and the lemon moves towards lime. As it sits the lime gets muskier—more in Makrut lime territory now. With time there’s some sweeter fruit (blueberries). A couple of drops of water pull out some pastry crust and push the citrus back. Continue reading
Port Charlotte 16, 2001, The Heretic, Feis Ile 2018
Okay, let’s close out peated Islay week with one from Bruichladdich. This 16 yo Port Charlotte was bottled for the 2018 edition of Feis Ile, the Islay whisky festival. It is a vatting of the last five casks that were filled during the 2001, which was the first year that the peated Port Charlotte distillate was produced at Bruichladdich. It was given the name “The Heretic”, which I think refers to the fact Bruichladdich had not historically made peated whisky. The cask types that went into the vatting include ex-bourbon, ex-rum and ex-French wine. At only 1300 bottles, this was a true limited release. Let’s see what it was like.
Port Charlotte 16, 2001, The Heretic (55.9%; for Feis Ile 2018; from a bottle split)
Nose: The familiar Bruichladdich/Port Charlotte sour milk but it’s mixed here with sweet cereals and carbolic peat and lemon and the whole is rather nice. On the second sniff there’s some bacon fat in there too. On the third sniff the bacon fat turns to a freshly open can of smoked sardines. Some butterscotch in there as well. Water amplifies the butyric notes at first but it burns of leaving a mix of cereals and ash. Continue reading
Caol Ila 14, Four Corners
Here is the second of this week’s reviews of peated whiskies from Islay. (See here for Monday’s review of an indie Laphroaig.) Today I have for you a 14 yo Caol Ila that was matured in a mix of refill and freshly charred hogsheads. This is an official release, part of a Diageo series named Four Corners. The series also includes releases from Glenkinchie, Cardhu and Clynelish. Together these are said to form the four corners of Scotland (let’s not look too closely at an actual map), or at least of Diageo’s Scottish portfolio map (let’s not look too closely at an actual map). This might put you in mind of Diageo’s old Classic Malts lineup but I believe this series may also have something to do with all four distilleries having recently been refurbished in a major way. I could be wrong: as I’ve noted before, it’s been years since I’ve paid attention to whisky industry news. The most shocking thing about the series though is that all four releases not only have age statements but are also in their teens. And all are at cask strength. I’m not sure what’s gotten into Diageo. Well, nothing too drastic as the prices were rather keen—obviously no lapse on that front. Anyway, let’s see what this is like. Continue reading
Williamson 12, 2010 (Thompson Bros.)
After a week of mezcal reviews (here, here and here) and before that, a week of rum reviews (here, here and here), it’s time to get back to Scotland and whisky. And in particular we’ll head to Islay. This week will feature teenaged peated whiskies. First up is the youngest. It’s a 12 yo Laphroaig bottled by the Thompson brothers of Dornoch from a refill sherry cask. (As you doubtless know by now, “Williamson” is the name used these days for most independent releases of Laphroaig.) Let’s get right to it.
Williamson 12, 2010 (50%; Thompson Bros.; refill sherry cask; from a bottle split)
Nose: Sweet, carbolic peat with some lime zest and then quite a lot of salt crystals. More coastal with each sniff with shells and seaweed joining the salt. Some more fruit in there too after a minute: tart apple, lemon; the smoke gets sootier. Continues in this general vein, maybe getting a little sweeter. With a few drops of water it turns into ashy limoncello; the salt’s still here. Continue reading
Derrumbes, Tamaulipas
And another Derrumbes to end this week of mezcal reviews (see here for the Amaras Cupreata, and here for the Derrumbes San Luis Potosi). This one comes from the state of Tamaulipas in Northeast Mexico. It is not made from a single agave varietal but is an ensamble or blend of spirit made from different varietals. Let’s get right to it,
Derrumbes, Tamaulipas (47%; Lot 10; from my own bottle)
Nose: A little bit of acetone off the top. Green peppers here as well—a mix of bell and serrano—but they’re not as pickled in vinegar as in the previous two. Slightly bitter on the second sip and there’s some vinegar now. No real sign of smoke in this one either. As it sits, lime emerges along with some pepper; some very mild lactic notes as well (buttermilk). Continue reading
My Annoying Opinions 