The first two reviews of this week of mezcal were both of releases from Mal Bien (the Alto and the Verde). Mal Bien is an American company that works with small producers in Mexico. Today’s review is also of a mezcal from a company that works with small producers in Mexico but this time it’s a Mexican company: Rey Campero. They are based in a small village in Oaxaca and are a family-owned company led by a mezcalero, Romulo Sanchez Parada. So if you like the idea of the bulk of the profit from the sale of mezcal going to producers based in Mexico—and I have to admit I do— Rey Campero is the brand for you. They make mezcal from a range of maguey varieties and in a number of styles. I’ll review a few more of their releases next month but first up, I have for you a review of a Tobala (the name of the variety of maguey it is distilled from). This variety is apparently grown at high altitudes, which gives it a distinct character. As I’ve said before, I’m not knowledgeable enough about mezcal to confidently tease apart the characteristics of different varietals of maguey but I am willing to slowly learn. I do know I really liked the Del Maguey Tobala I’ve previously reviewed. Let’s see what I make of this one.

Rey Campero, Tobala (48.5%; from a bottle split)

Nose: Damp earth, a bit of acetone, lime, serrano peppers in vinegar. Continues in this general vein with the earthy notes more to the fore. A couple of drops of water and there’s some vegetal bitterness now.

Palate: Comes in as indicated by the nose but with a big dose of cracked pepper. A good bite at 48.5%, rich texture. Some sweeter fruit on subsequent sips. More lime with time and then some hints of passionfruit as well. Brighter/more acidic with water and saltier.

Finish: Long. Nothing new emerges here. As on the palate with water.

Comments: Another very high quality mezcal that stops just a little short of entering special territory. Comparing my notes, it’s not quite as fruity as the Del Maguey, and I have it a little bit below that one. I’d happily drink a lot of it though.

Rating: 85 points.