The seven or eight people who read my mezcal reviews last week will be thrilled to know that I’m doing another full week of mezcal. Last week I reviewed two releases from Mal Bien (the Alto and the Verde) and one from Rey Campero (the Tobala). This week will be all Rey Campero. First up, the Jabali. Yes, Jabali is the name of the maguey varietal used to make this mezcal. As per Mezcal Reviews, this variety is apparently seldom used in mezcal making as it is apt to foam during fermentation and distillation. As someone who has been known to foam at the mouth himself from time to time, I’m going to take that as a good sign. Let’s see what it’s like.

Oh yes, this is from lot DS029-J. It was distilled in August 2021 and rested for five months in glass vats. I could even tell you what type of yeast was used for fermentation, what the source of the water used was, the type of mill used etc. etc. This is not because I know so much but because artisanal mezcal producers seem to put all this information on their bottles. Viva transparency!

Rey Campero, Jabali, Mezcal (48.7%; from a bottle split)

Nose: Big blast of citrus (lime peel) mixed in with vegetal notes and salt. On the second sniff there’s a bit of passionfruit and some charred pineapple. The vegetal notes recede as it sits and the fruit is emphasized. A drop of water brings out some custardy notes and some pepper.

Palate: Comes in as advertised by the nose but with some green pepper mixed in. A good bite at 48.7%, good texture. As it sits some bitterness emerges but it goes well with the fruit and salt. That bitter note turns into char and carbon paper. Water pushes the char back and makes it sweeter.

Finish: Long. More char and smoke here and the salt comes through as well. As on the palate with water.

Comments: Oh, I like this one even more than the Tobala. The mix of bright fruit, vegetal notes, char and salt is just lovely.

Rating: 87 points.