
Here is my second Rey Campero review of the week and the third overall (see here for last Friday’s review of the Tobala, and here for Monday’s review of the Jabali). This mezcal is made from a 50-50 mix of two different kinds of maguey: the Mexicano and the Madrecuishe. Madrecuishe is not the same as the cuishe maguey, in case you’re wondering (as I was before I looked it up). This was distilled in February 2020 and rested in glass for 18 months. That’s quite a bit longer than the five months the Jabali spent in glass (the Tobala’s label did not include that information). I’m not sure how common it is for joven (or mezcal not aged in oak) to be rested in glass for extended periods or where 18 months of resting in glass falls on the range of times common in the industry. If you know more about this, please write in below (or point me to good sources of information on mezcal production processes). In the meantime, here are my notes.
Rey Campero, Mexicano + Madrecuishe (50.3%; from a bottle split)
Nose: More vegetal and smoky off the top than either the Jabali or the Tobala; lime and grapefruit and salt below that. As it sits the vegetal notes burn off a fair bit and more smoke emerges; some cucumber too now. A drop of water turns the vegetal note into smouldering leaves and also brings out a mild creaminess.
Palate: Wonderfully balanced with the vegetal and brighter notes mixing with more savoury notes (ham cure), salt and a bit of smoke. A very good drinking strength, with rich texture. As it sits it gets more peppery. More fruit with water and it’s sweeter now with a touch of passionfruit.
Finish: Long. More bitter citrus here (lime peel and zest) and salt and smoke along the edges. As on the palate with water.
Comments: This is the best of the Rey Camperos so far and probably my favourite of the mezcals I’ve had recently as it seems to harmoniously combine everything I like about mezcal.
Rating: 88 points
I wish I could trade you some mezcal bottle splits for some of your pickle.