Let’s close out this week of reviews of mezcals from Rey Campero (see here for Monday’s Jabali and here for Wednesday’s Mexicano+Madrecuishe; and here for last Friday’s Tobala) with a somewhat unusual pechuga. Pechuga, as you may know, is a category of mezcal in the traditional production of which a chicken or turkey breast is hung over the still during the final distillation of the spirit, and which also deploys fruits, vegetables and nuts in the distillation process. That’s the traditional version. In recent years, however, many twists on the savoury component used have emerged. None of the three pechugas I’ve previously reviewed have involved chicken or turkey breasts. I’ve reviewed a Del Maguey that used Iberico ham, a Quiquiriqui that used cacao beans, and a Cinco Sentidos that used mole poblano! This Rey Campero pechuga is relatively staid by comparison as it involves a bird, even if it is quail. Also used in the distillation were grilled pineapple, grilled banana and grilled corn cobs. The unusual part is that it is only double-distilled whereas most pechugas are triple-distilled. It was produced in February 2022 and rested in glass for three months. Oh yes, the maguey used was Espadin, which is apparently the norm with pechuga. Okay, let’s see what it’s like.

Rey Campero, Pechuga de Codorniz (48.8%; from a bottle split)

Nose: Um, more than a little pukey off the top—or butyric if you want to be more genteel. Lime and some sweeter fruit below but I’m going to wait for that top note to (hopefully) burn off. With time it backs off a fair bit (though it doesn’t fully go away), letting out charred lemon and more savoury notes; quite a bit of smoke too now. With a drop of water there’s a fair bit of salt to go with the rest.

Palate: Comes in savoury—but not obviously meaty—with a big hit of green pepper (capsaicin) and then smoke. A good drinking strength; good texture. Sweeter on the second sip. As it sits, more vegetal notes emerge. Water brings out some pencil lead and some vegetal bitterness and the pepper pops out earlier.

Finish: Long. Gets quite peppery here and there’s more char. With time the fruit hangs around longer and salt emerges as well. Not much change here with water.

Comments: I liked this better than the Quiquiriqui Cacao Pechuga and the Cinco Sentidos, Pechuga de Mole Poblano but not quite as much as the Del Maguey Iberico. Some of that has to do with the butyric note on the nose—which took a long time to subside—but it also has to do with the fact that it’s not very distinctive vis a vis non-pechuga mezcal. Despite everything that goes into it, it tastes pretty much like a standard mezcal; well, to my untutored tongue anyway—true aficionados may differ.

Rating: 85 points.