The third agave spirit of this week—and a shout out to the very few who read my reviews of the two Cinco Sentidos mezcals (here and here)—is not a mezcal per se but a raicilla. Raicilla is produced in Jalisco. As far as I can make out, it’s made in much the same way as mezcal but is outside the regions officially recognized for mezcal production. Well, it’s also the case that a lot of raicilla is single-distilled, whereas mezcal is typically double-distilled. But the one I have for you today, bottled by Bonete, was apparently double-distilled as well. So the distinction between it and mezcal may just be nominal. The major sub-regions for production are along the coast near Puerto Vallarta and in the Occidental Mountains. The former bear the appellation “Costa”, and the latter, the appellation “Sierra”. This one is Bonete’s Costa—I think they also bottle a Sierra. Anyway, I am curious to see what it’s like and if I can make out much of a difference from mezcal. 

Bonete, Raicilla Costa (45.4%; from a bottle split)

Nose: Oh, this is quite lovely: a mix of vegetal (green pepper) and earthy notes on the one hand, herbal (sage, mint) and fruity (lime) brightness on the other; and on the third hand, there’s a savoury note (ham cure). As it sits, the lime expands and a fourth hand develops, holding some flowers. With more time, the vegetal and earthy notes (damp clay) expand. With a few drops of water the lime comes back strong

Palate: Comes in with a big whack of jalapeño and lime and salt; a bit of smoke coming up from behind. A good drinking strength; nice texture. Sweeter on the second sip and now there’s some green olives as well. A hint of gasoline with more time and then more lime. More vegetal with water and just a little bit bitter.

Finish: Long. Some pepper here but otherwise develops as on the palate. With time the vegetal notes have the final word, but now it’s more in the realm of steamed bitter greens than green pepper. As on the palate with water.

Comments: I was expecting something quite wild but I didn’t really pick up the cheese notes that many reviewers on Mezcal Reviews note. I would say this is just mezcal by another name. I’m sure the single-distilled raicillas are quite different. I would love to try one. Anyway, this is very good indeed.

Rating: 87 points.