The last whisky review I posted before our trip to Japan (and our subsequent summer travels) began was of the 2013 release of the Hakushu Sherry Cask. The first review I have for you now that our travels are over is of another Japanese whisky, the Nikka Pure Malt White. I acquired this bottle many years ago, along with the Pure Malt Black (which I reviewed almost exactly a year ago). A friend picked both up from the duty free at Reykjavik airport in 2012 for all of $22 each. Rub your eyes and read that sentence again. Where the Black was dubbed “Smoky & Mellow” this one bears the words “Salty & Peaty” on the rear label. Where the Black contained a high dose of peated whisky from Nikkas’s Yoichi distillery, the White was described by them as “made mainly with Islay, Scotland type malt”. Now as to whether “Islay, Scotland type malt” means it actually contains Islay whisky or whether it contains whisky made in that style—perhaps from peated barley from Islay—I have no idea. Anyway, I’m looking forward to finally tasting it.

Nikka Pure Malt White, “Salty & Peaty” (43%; from my own bottle)

Nose: Stop the presses! This is salty and peaty! The peat is mellow (and not phenolic) and it’s the salt that makes the first impression. Sweeter on the second and third sniffs (wet stones, a hint of vanilla) and there’s a touch of citrus as well (dried orange peel). The sweet notes get richer as it sits and the whole moves in the direction of some sort of citrus tart sitting in a kitchen with a sooty coal stove. Ashier with more time. A touch of water brightens and sweetens it up again—but the sweetness has a metallic tinge.

Palate: The peat is more pronounced here—not phenolic here either—and it doesn’t start out as fruity as on the nose. It packs both a bigger punch and richer texture than you might expect at 43%. The fruit emerges here too as it sits, as does the ash. With more time the peat expands dramatically: a lot of ash and soot now. With water there’s more of the wet stones from the nose and some lemon. The lemon expands and is joined by some sweeter fruit.

Finish: Medium-long. The peat continues on top for a while. As it fades the salt emerges again. Generally as on the palate with time and water, though a little bitter now at the end.

Comments: Another excellent Pure Malt release from Nikka and another I wish I had had the foresight to put away more bottles of. If this was really made with Islay malt then I would guess Bunnahabhain as being the source—given the lack of phenolic punch. In many ways it reminds me of old-school blends from the 1970s and earlier.

Rating: 88 points.