I opened this month’s booze reviews with a mezcal (this excellent ixterro amarillo from Chacolo) and so I may as well close the month’s reviews with another mezcal. This is a release from Gusto Historico, an outfit set up by Marco Ochoa, one of the founders of Mezcaloteca, a well-known mezcaleria in Oaxaca. They are relatively new to the American market. They feature mezcals that are all made, I believe, in Miahuatlán in Oaxaca. They work with a number of maestros but the few releases I’ve seen in stores in the Twin Cities all seem to be made by Victor Ramos (whose mezcal has also been released by Mal Bien). Such was the release, a tobala, that I reviewed just about a year ago and such is the release I’m reviewing today: made from the madrecuixe maguey. This species of maguey apparently takes a long time to mature and has a low yield, which means it mostly appears in small-batch releases. I think this may be my first-ever madrecuishe—I’ve only taken baby steps into the world of mezcal over the last couple of years—and so I can’t tell you how typical this particular expression is of the broader varietal. I can tell you that I’ve had the bottle open for a few days now and have really been enjoying it. Here now are my notes.

Gusto Historico, Madrecuixe, Victor Ramos (52%; Lot VR.03.23.MCX; from my own bottle)

Nose: Sliced green peppers in vinegar, lime, a bit of chalk, quite a bit of salt. As it sits, a slightly astringent note emerges (new leather) but otherwise it remains quite consistent. With a drop of water there’s a bit of vanilla and some yeasty notes.

Palate: Comes in as indicated by the nose but with some sweeter fruit (apple) added on along with a bit of dill and sage. A bit hot at full strength; rich texture. The earthy and spicy notes pop out earlier as it sits and the astringent thing from the nose makes an appearance on the palate as well—not unpleasant. Gets a bit sweeter with more time in the glass. Water makes it more approachable and pulls out more vegetal notes.

Finish: Long. Earthy notes emerge along with cinnamon. Cracked pepper with time. As on the palate with water.

Comments: This is very pleasurable indeed. I’ll be interested to see how it opens up with more air in the bottle.

Rating: 87 points.