Caperdonich 18, 1994 (Hunter Hamilton for K&L)

Caperdonich 18
This Caperdonich was bottled for K&L in California by Hunter Hamilton under their Sovereign label. Hunter Hamilton in turn is one of the many Laing outfits, I believe. All the Caperdonichs I’ve had have been very old and from the halcyon period from the late 60s to the early 70s so I am curious to see what this middle-aged one from 1994 is like. You don’t really hear too much about Caperdonich from the 1980s and 1990s.

And Caperdonich is really not a well-known name, in general, outside whisky geek circles. This bottle started out north of $100 at K&L and eventually got discounted down to the mid-$70s. Hard luck for those who bought it at the original price but so it goes, I suppose. Anyway, now that the distillery is closed down for good it might well be that there’s a lot of stock from its later period as well that might get to mature to a ripe old age as the older stock did through the 70s, 80s and 90s. Continue reading

Willett 21 (K&L Exclusive)

Willett

I know nothing about Willett, but as it says “Stitzel” in parentheses on the label I’m pretty sure there are people who will say I don’t deserve to be drinking it. Whiskey from the extinct Stitzel-Weller distillery, you see, is one of the most prized (or hyped, depending on your point of view) commodities in the world of bourbon, and it’s quite possible that its charms are wasted on a bourbon neophyte like me. If it helps assuage these concerns let me reassure you that I only drank half of this sample as a shot with cherry Coke and Southern Comfort. And now I have my seersucker suit and my panama hat on and am sitting in a rocking chair on my front porch, drinking the rest, with my faithful hounds Ezra and Elijah at my feet. You have to forgive me–I don’t really know my bourbon stereotypes.
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Clynelish 21, 1990 (Chieftain’s)

Clynelish
Another Chieftain’s exclusive for K&L, this time a sherried Clynelish. And you’ll be pleased to know that this time David D.’s notes included no problematic content, which saves me from having to go on about it, and saves you from skipping past that part of this post, I mean, reading it very carefully. I’m being ironic, but in truth, I much prefer when the whisky is the only thing drawing my attention.

This was a bottle that I was interested in when it was first announced but as K&L don’t ship to Minnesota I thought I’d have to wait till I was in L.A next to get it and it was sold out by then. I only learned later that I could have purchased it online and had it held for pickup at the Hollywood store. Ah well, it’s not like I have a shortage of whisky on my shelves, and at least I get to taste some now.   Continue reading

Mortlach 22, 1990 (Chieftain’s)

Mortlach
This Mortlach is a K&L exclusive selection via Chieftain’s. With characteristic understatement they inform that this is the best Mortlach they’ve ever found or ever will find again (every exclusive sold at K&L seems to be in that range); alas, with similarly characteristic lack of attention to detail they also say that the majority of Mortlach sold in the US by independent bottlers is from bourbon casks. Well, while there do seem to be a few recent releases from bourbon hogsheads and barrels of late, I can think of three sherried selections from Signatory and G&M for Binny’s alone in the last few years, and the somewhat dangerous 15 yo from G&M that’s the most ubiquitous Mortlach in the US is also sherried. In other words, sherried Mortlachs are not such unknowns in the US. Once again, accuracy loses to enthusiasm in K&L’s marketing.

But is this Mortlach better than all of those? Let’s see. Continue reading

Glendronach 19, 1993, Cask 490 (for K&L)

GlendronachThese days it’s hard to throw a stone in the whisky world without hitting a single cask release from Glendronach (though it would probably be a good idea to not throw stones in the whisky world, were one to actually exist). It feels like there’s one every other month. We don’t really get any of these in the US usually, and so it’s nice to see this release from K&L of an official oloroso sherry cask from 1993. I have already reviewed another 1993 oloroso sherry cask release from Glendronach (also 19 years old) and you can read my take on that one here.

K&L seems to have had some trouble selling this one out. That’s a shame because this is really quite good. The problem is probably that the whisky market in the US is not quite as mature as in the EU when it comes to single malts and the Glendronach name doesn’t carry quite much cachet here yet as it does in the UK and Europe where a much larger set of casks are released every year and most sell out. As a result, $140 for a 19yo probably seems like too much of a barrier. I think it would probably help if the excellent Glendronach 15 “Revival” were a little cheaper and could function as a gateway for the brand (the more affordable 12 yo “Original” is fine but nothing very distinctive); but, in general, I think it is hard in the US to sell the general malt market on relatively expensive teenaged whiskies from the second and third-tier names (even if the whiskies themselves are very good). Continue reading

Springbank 14, 1997 (for K&L)

Springbank
Another official Springbank bottled for K&L
in California. This one is from a single refill madeira butt. I bought this because I am a fan of Springbank in general but more particularly because the old Springbank 11, 1997 Madeira Cask (a non-single cask general release) was a favourite before it disappeared. Looking at the colour of the whisky, however, I would guess that the 11 yo had a lot more first-fill madeira casks in the vatting. Either that or this single cask just happens to be from a refill butt that did not impart as much colour: in short, this is not as dark as its younger sibling bottled three years previous. But that’s not terribly interesting information in and of itself. Let’s see what this is like on the nose and palate.
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Springbank 13, 1998, Fresh Bourbon Barrel

k&lspringbankbourbon
Continuing with another cask bottled specially for an American retail store, here is a Springbank bottled for K&L, the well-known Californian retailer. I have some quibbles with some of the promotional habits of this store–of which more in a later post–but they do select interesting bottles from time to time. And this is certainly an interesting one, as it’s not always easy to find Springbanks from ex-bourbon casks. The distillery is known for its ex-sherry matured whiskies, and the wood expression series previously released in the US were first a bunch of 12 year olds from different kinds of sherry casks, and a few years later another bunch of 14 year olds from a range of sherry casks. They’ve also released a series of whiskies matured or double matured in other wine casks–claret, madeira, marsala–and even rum and more recently, a calvados cask. They’re a family owned concern and tend to do things their own way–every aspect of the production process is carried out on their premises, where they also produce the Longrow and Hazelburn ranges.  Continue reading