Back to brandy, back to cognac, back to Lheraud. I have to date reviewed two releases of 1970s vintages from the renowned cognac house. I really liked the 1970 Fins Bois and was a little less enthused by the 1973 Petite Champagne (though I did like it). Today’s Lheraud was distilled in 1975 and is made from grapes from the Borderies region. Where will it fall in comparison to the other two. Let’s see.
Lheraud Borderies 1975-2005 (47%; Cognac; Borderies; from a bottle split)
Nose: A mix of caramel, dried orange peel, apricot jam and honey. Gets brighter as it sits with sweeter notes coming to the top (berries of some kind); a bit of cola too. Water seems to mute all of the above though it doesn’t do too much damage.
Palate: More or less as promised by the nose but with a decent amount of oak mixed in—not tannic, not sharp, but quite perceptible. Decent texture at 47%. The oak gets more assertive and more spicy as it sits. Okay, let’s see what water does. Less oak with water and the fruit is emphasized a bit more.
Finish: Medium-long. Oaky here too and it gets spicier as it goes, becoming a little mentholated at the end. As on the palate with water. The oak is less spicy now and more perfumed.
Comments: These last two Lherauds have not quite risen to the level of the first, lacking the fruity intensity of that Fins Bois. On its own merits, however, this one, like the Petite Champagne, is very good—I thought the nose was the best part. I wouldn’t pay the likely asking price for it though. But I think bourbon drinkers would like it more.
Rating: 86 points.