Carnatic Cafe III (Delhi, December 2024)


My first three meal reports from my recent solo trip to Delhi were of lunches at which I ate thalis: at Arunachali Sajolang, Bhansaghar and Zambar. There were, in fact, only two meals I ate out that did not involve thalis. One was my lunch at Dzükou, and the other was this lunch at Carnatic Cafe. This is my third report over the years of meals eaten at Carnatic Cafe. The first was from their original Friends Colony location (since closed); the second was from the Greater Kailash II location. This meal took me to yet another of their locations, this one in the Lodhi Colony market. I  met a dear old friend for lunch here. Here’s a quick look at how it went.

Carnatic Cafe at the Lodhi Colony market is a complicated affair with seemingly more than one outlet/dining room adjoining each other at the location. When I arrived a little before 1 pm on a Monday one of the outlets seemed empty whereas the other was bustling. Accordingly, I went into the one that was busy and grabbed a table for two. By the time my friend arrived 15 minutes or so later, a long line had begun to build up outside. This is a much more attractive location than the GK-II one (at least as it was in March 2022) and much larger than the original.

While I waited for my friend I placed an order for a plate of idlis and a glass of buttermilk. Both were very good but I may have liked the sambar and the chutneys more than the idlis themselves. When my friend arrived we quickly got down to the business of lunch proper. My friend resisted my subtle attempts to influence him to get the ragi dosa (so that I could get some bites) and instead ordered their classic Malleshwaram 18th Cross dosa (excellent as always). Why didn’t I get the ragi dosa myself? Well, because in 2022 I had talked myself out of their Benne Khali dosa only to be told later by Carnatic Cafe veterans that I had made a huge mistake. So I was set on getting it this time. And it was indeed outstanding. It’s a very different type of dosa: thicker and spongier and quite saturated with butter (benne). The pleasures are entirely those of texture and butter—it’s a saada/plain dosa, i.e no filling. Both dosas came with the same sambar and chutneys that had accompanied the idlis, not that I am complaining.

To end we each got some ice cream. My friend got the palm jaggery and roasted sesame (which was very nice) and I got the tender coconut, which I’d enjoyed very much on the previous occasion and did so again.

For a look at the restaurant, the menu and what we ate, launch the slideshow below. Scroll down to see what’s coming next on the food front.

Prices have risen very slightly since March 2022 (Rs. 220 for the Benne Khali now compared to Rs. 205 then). At Rs. 1200 or so with the included service charge it’s still very good value for what it is (you shouldn’t, however, expect very much by way of service: they’re simultaneously over-staffed and disinterested). I have not obviously eaten widely enough in the genre recently to proclaim Carnatic Cafe, as many do, the best in Delhi for this kind of food but if there’s a competitor that’s better or as good, I’d love to get a recommendation for my next trip.

Alright, I will finish up my reports from this trip next week—and the next one will also feature South Indian food but actually eaten in Tamil Nadu. My next restaurant report, however, and the last for 2024 will come from the Twin Cities metro. That will be on Tuesday. Tomorrow, in lieu of a fifth booze review for the month, I’ll post my year in review in eating out, complete with my top 10 restaurant meals of 2024.


 

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