Bruichladdich “The Organic”

Bruichladdich OrganicThis review is being published simultaneously with Michael Kravitz’s at Diving for Pearls. Michael was the source of the sample. As always, we have not discussed our notes or score ahead of publishing the reviews. Once I’ve woken up and had a cup of tea I’ll post the link to his review here. (And here it is.)

I’m not quite sure where “The Organic” falls in Bruichladdich’s welter of experimental and one-off releases. As per the sample label this was bottled in early 2013–as to whether this is one of the last gasps of the experimental Reynier era at the distillery or if it reflects directions in ongoing production, I don’t know. If you do, please chime in below. And for a proper appreciation of Bruichladdich’s marketing department’s efforts with this whisky, please read this (the blog appears defunct, which is a shame). Continue reading

Port Charlotte 10

Port Charlotte 10
Bruichladdich’s new 10 yo came online a couple of years ago–the first release of 10 yo spirit distilled and matured by Mark Reynier’s team after they purchased and re-opened Bruichladdich (Reynier himself, alas, has since been pushed out with the purchase of the distillery by Remy-Cointreau). The status of that 10 yo is under a bit of a cloud at present with low availability and not much clear information about its status. I am not too worried about this as I was not quite as excited about my bottle of that whisky as a lot of people were about theirs– but that’s neither here nor there. A year after the new (unpeated) Laddie 10 appeared this 10 yo from their peated Port Charlotte line also showed up, right on schedule.

Unlike the PC5-11 (I think we’re at 11) limited releases this is not at cask strength, and not, as far as I know, the product of any exotic double maturation or vattings. It’s also a fair sight cheaper, retailing in the $50 neighbourhood in the US, which is cool to see: given the prices the experimental PC series goes for it is good to see the distillery keeping faith with customers and not charging a premium for their regular release. (For a very differently priced 10 yo from the distillery see the Octomore 10). Continue reading

Octomore 6.1

Octomore 6.1This edition of the very highly peated Octomore line from Bruichladdich tops out at a peating level of 167 ppm–though, as always, this is a number measured before distillation and the peat levels in the spirit that makes it into the bottle are not anywhere close to that level or even proportionately higher than malts made from barley with a lower peat ppm count before distillation. At any rate, I enjoyed my bottles of both the 2.1 and the 4.2 (Comus) and didn’t find those to be insanely peated in the glass. Ditto for the 3.1, which I got a taste of at a gathering in March (though I didn’t like it quite as much as the 2.1 or 4.2). Let’s see what the story is with the 6.1 which is also distinguished in that it’s made from Scottish barley.

Octomore 6.1 (57%; from a purchased sample)

Nose: Peat, slightly rubbery and quite sweet. Gets very phenolic very fast and also rather briny–both salty sea air and olive brine. Some oily, almondy notes below all that and some vanilla and cream that begins to come to the fore. With more time and air there’s lemon as well, salty and ashy. With even more time there’s a butyric note. I wonder if water will expand or banish it. Okay, good: water does push it down and brings out more of the salted lemons. Continue reading

Port Charlotte “An Turas Mor”

An Turas Mor“An Turas Mor” means “end of the journey” or something along those lines in Scots Gaelic and was one of Bruichladdich’s releases leading up to the long awaited release of the regular 10 yo in their heavily peated Port Charlotte line. I have a sample of that new Port Charlotte 10 on my shelves and a review of that will likely appear soon as well.

This was opened a few months ago for one of our local group’s monthly tastings–it then sat at the half-full mark for a few months before being featured again in our tasting for March. On both occasions it was the fourth of four malts tasted and followed another less aggressively peated malt. I was interested to see how our group–which tastes everything blind–would rate it right after opening and then after it had sat a while. As it happens, as a group we were all over the map. One cluster rated it about the same on both occasions. Another cluster rated it much higher on the first occasion than on the second. And a third and smaller cluster had it slightly higher on the second occasion. Its aggregate score dipped a few points on the second occasion. I myself had it slightly higher on the first occasion than on the second, finding the palate and finish to have lost a little oomph. It is, however, the case that I am the only one in the group who does not taste blind and so I knew I was drinking the second, “oxidized” half of the bottle. Continue reading

Octomore 10

Octomore 10
The only proper response to a 10 yo whisky that costs between $250 and $300 is “oh, fuck off!”. But here’s a longer review anyway of the Octomore 10, the “prelude” to the first regular release in Bruichladdich’s line of insanely peated whiskies.

Before it’s even nosed or tasted, three things distinguish this Octomore from the ones that have come before–other than the fact that it costs twice as much as those already expensive forbears: 1) it has the lowest peating level in the series at 80.5 ppm–twice as much as most other peated Islays but half the ppm of the new Octomore 6s; 2) it is bottled at 50% and not an eye-watering cask strength; and 3) it is twice as old as the others in the series, which have all been 5 years old.

But what is it like? Continue reading

Bruichladdich 19, 1999-2009, Black Art

Bruichladdich Black Art 19 yoThis was the first in Bruichladdich’s Black Art series of complicatedly matured malts (bourbon and then, from what I can tell online, every kind of wine cask that head distiller, Jim McEwan could get his hands on). The bottles are striking–black with alchemical images–and the prices are high. As with a lot of the 75,189 whiskies the revived Bruichladdich released to keep the cash flow going while they waited for their own distillate to come online, this is older stock “finished”, or in Bruichladdich/Murray McDavid’s parlance, ACE’d in wine casks. Some would say that this is yet another case of Jim McEwan making silk purses out of sow’s ears; and others might say that the smell of porcine earwax lingers. You can probably guess which way a miserable bastard like me would tend. That said, there are some of McEwan’s experiments that I have absolutely loved–the Infinity 3, for example, and the Octomore Comus–and I like to believe that I keep an open mind; if dodgy old stock softened up in wine casks results in a fine whisky I am happy to drink it.

Bruichladdich 19, 1999-2009, “Black Art” (51.1%; bourbon and wine cask matured; from a sample received in a swap)

Nose: Somewhat closed, which is odd considering the abv is not that high. Then winey notes (lots of red fruit), some raisins and nuts. A little saltier with time. With a little more time there’s some citrus peel. Water suppresses the wine but doesn’t bring out anything new.

Palate: Sweet and rather red winey. Cherry liqueur and plums and just a little bit of smoke. Gets saltier with time and there’s some citrus here too. It’s not bad, but is it whisky? Water improves things a little–the red fruit and wine get dialed back and the saltiness expands.

Finish: Medium. Gets more bitter as it goes (but doesn’t get very bitter) and there’s some soot. The salt and citrus continues on the finish. However, with water, the wine separates at the very end.

Comments: This is not as much of a wine-whisky cocktail as the Glenmorangie Artein, and I do like it more but, on the whole, I am very glad I was not ever intrigued enough by this to buy a bottle. There have been more editions but unless I read very strong reports I am not very motivated to seek them out. So, what are the odds that Jim McEwan and Bruichladdich are going to dial back the wine cask maturation now? Though the reports that the new Octomore 6.2 is (part?) matured in eau de vie casks makes me worry about where they may go next if they do….

Rating: 82 points. (Below 80 without water.)

Thanks to Sku for the sample!

Octomore 4.2, Comus

Octomore 4.2 Comus
The Octomore Comus consists, I believe, of bourbon cask matured spirit “finished” for an unspecified length of time in sauternes casks. Now, I’m not generally a fan of sweet wine finishes but this is really a very lovely whisky (spoiler alert!). And the frosted glass makes the bottle far more elegant, in my opinion, than the regular opaque black livery of the Octomore line (see my complaints about it here). Peated to 167 ppm, this held the record for highest peating level when released but has since been passed by whatever version of Octomore we’re at now.

If you want a bit of a laugh, or alternatively, if you haven’t rolled your eyes in a while and would like to get in a lot of practice, here’s a video of whisky legend, Islay icon, and Bruichladdich’s head distiller, Jim McEwan talking about the Comus (and no, he doesn’t seem very much more certain of how to pronounce the name than you or I are).
Continue reading

Port Charlotte PC6

Port Charlotte PC6
Bruichladdich
, as you may know, is one of two Islay distilleries traditionally known for unpeated whisky (Bunnahabhain is the other). This changed after the distillery was purchased and re-opened by Mark Reynier and co. a little over ten years ago (Mark Reynier was pushed out last year after the distillery was purchased by Remy-Cointreau). Head distiller, Jim McEwan put together a number of peated vattings that were part of the roughly 3,750 bottlings that Bruichladdich released over that time to maintain cash flow while they waited for their own unpeated spirit to come online (which it did in 2011). They also started distilling new peated spirit, both the high octane Octomore line (see my review of the 2.1 here), and the more traditionally highly peated Port Charlotte line, the barley for which, I believe is peated to about 40 parts per million (in line with Lagavulin, Ardbeg and Laphroaig). Continue reading

Octomore 2.1

Octomore 2.1
The universe saw fit to give southern Minnesota snow on this the first day of May, and I was thus in the mood for something very smoky. And as both the brats were utter bastards at dinner-time I also needed something very strong. And so naturally I reached for my bottle of Octomore 2.1. The word “Octomore”, I assume, means “very expensive despite being very young” in Scots Gaelic. It is the bane of those who like to alphabetize their whisky collections, as the very striking bottle is also very tall (a single bottle of Octomore would cause havoc in a collection housed in an IKEA Billy bookcase). It would also be very good for striking people with as you can comfortably hold it by the neck in a tight fist and use the bottle as a club. But you should wait till the bottle is empty to do that–and when that will be is hard to tell as the bottle is darker than Donald Rumsfeld’s soul and it is impossible to tell what the level at any time is. The feeling of anomie that this sometimes inspires must be another of the things we are paying for when we pay through the nose for Octomore.
Continue reading