Bunnahabhain 14, 1997 (Svenska Eldvatten)

Bunnahabhain 14, SEBunnahabhain have themselves recently gotten into the peated whisky game with the Toiteach (well, 2008, but it has only just arrived in the US). But a lot of peated Bunnahabhain has been and is available from independent bottlers. Presumably, peated runs were/are made for the group’s blending needs (Bunnahabhain’s production capacity is far higher than that of Tobermory, which is the other distillery in the group that produces peated whisky, under the Ledaig brand name). Indeed, a lot of Bunnahabhain, in general, is available from independent bottlers, and older indie Bunnahabhain, in particular, along with Caol Ila, represents a very good value among the Islay distilleries. That’s neither here nor there, however, as tonight, I am tasting a middle-aged Bunnahabhain from a new Swedish bottler, Svenska Eldvatten, about whom I know nothing other than that they make elegant labels for their bottles*. This is from a peated run and was matured in a first-fill sherry butt.

*But wait, they have a website from which I learn that “Eldvatten” is Swedish for “firewater”. Okay, so they make nice labels and don’t take themselves too seriously. How good are they at cask selection? Let’s take a look:
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Bunnahabhain 18, 46.3%

Bunnahabhain 18

I didn’t like my bottle of the new(er) Bunnahabhain 12 so very much. Let’s see if this new version of the 18 yo is more to my liking. (I have not had the previous incarnation of the Bunnahabhain 18 at the lower strength and so cannot compare the two.) I think I may have read that this is entirely sherry matured, but I am not sure about that.

(Please admire at left the crappy cork that broke off as I opened the bottle for the first time last night. Luckily, I was able to get the rest out cleanly with a corkscrew, and substitute one of the hundred old corks I have lying around.)

Bunnahabhain 18 (46.3%; from my own bottle).

Nose: Honeyed sweetness, almost cloying at first. A very clean coastal aroma–sea air, but not intensely salty, and no rotting seaweed. Toffee and cream and a touch of vanilla. A very appetizing nose–I mean that literally: smelling this whisky is almost making me hungry. A malty note emerges later along with some rich fruit (baked apples? some citrus too) and a touch of woody spice. Very nice indeed. Doesn’t call out for water, but let’s see what a drop or three does for it: brings the wood out a little more and de-emphasizes the honey and toffee. Continue reading

Bunnahabhain 12, 46.3%

bunna12With news out today that Burn Stewart, the owner of Bunnahabhain (Islay), Deanston (Highlands) and Tobermory (Mull) has been purchased by a South African company, it seemed appropriate to take the measure of one of their whiskies tonight. As I don’t currently have any Tobermory (or Ledaig, the peated variant,) and have never owned any Deanston, Bunnahabhain it is.

Bunnahabhain is one of two Islay distilleries that has not traditionally been known for peated whisky–Bruichladdich is the other. Of course, since reopening a decade ago, Bruichladdich has released all manner of peated whiskies and shows no sign of stopping now, even if the peated whisky will now be released only in their Port Charlotte and Octomore lines (at least that’s my understanding). And Bunnahabhain, whose occasional peated runs in the past tended to be available only from independent bottlers, is now also officially in the smoky whisky business with the release of the heavily peated Toiteach. I guess now that distilleries all over the mainland are getting on the peat wagon, you can’t get left behind, on Islay of all places.

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