Derrumbes, Tamaulipas


And another Derrumbes to end this week of mezcal reviews (see here for the Amaras Cupreata, and here for the Derrumbes San Luis Potosi). This one comes from the state of Tamaulipas in Northeast Mexico. It is not made from a single agave varietal but is an ensamble or blend of spirit made from different varietals. Let’s get right to it,

Derrumbes, Tamaulipas (47%; Lot 10; from my own bottle)

Nose: A little bit of acetone off the top. Green peppers here as well—a mix of bell and serrano—but they’re not as pickled in vinegar as in the previous two. Slightly bitter on the second sip and there’s some vinegar now. No real sign of smoke in this one either. As it sits, lime emerges along with some pepper; some very mild lactic notes as well (buttermilk). Continue reading

Derrumbes, San Luis Potosi


Next up in this week of mezcal reviews is one of two releases I’ll be reviewing from Derrumbes. The company bottles mezcals made by producers from a number of different regions. This is from the state of San Luis Potosi and is made from a wild agave from the region: Salmiana. This agave apparently has a very low yield and the spirit made from it is said to exhibit some unique characteristics. I’m excited to give it a try and also a little bit apprehensive. Oh yes, the agave is cooked in above ground ovens prior to mashing and distillation, which results in non-smoky mezcal. As to whether that’s traditional for the region or this agave or just for this producer, I don’t know. If you know more, please write in below. Okay, let’s get to it.

Derrumbes, San Luis Potosi (44.3%; Lot 68; from my own bottle)

Nose: Comes in with a big bright burst of green chillies and vinegar. Under that are first earthier notes (dried mushrooms) and then a hit of blue cheese (or are those gym socks?). Some naugahyde in there too. The “green” notes become more vegetal with time and dominate. A few drops of water bring the gym socks back up to the top and then the blue cheese expands dramatically. Continue reading