And so, finally, I am the end of my reviews of Diageo’s 2023 Special Release slate. To close out the series I have the oldest of the lot: a Glenkinchie 27. (Already reviewed: Talisker, Lagavulin, Roseisle, Glendullan, Mortlach, Clynelish and Oban.) Unlike the others—bar the Lagavulin 12, which always had a place in the lineup—this Glenkinchie would have made sense in the lineup back when the Special Release did seem special and aspirational. In those days almost every whisky in the lineup bar the Lagavulin 12 was usually pretty old. See, for example, 2013 when other than a NAS unpeated Caol Ila, every other whisky in the lineup ranged from 21-37 years old. (Consider also that while 2013’s Port Ellen 34 cost £1500, this year’s Port Ellen 43—now in the Prime & Ultima series—will set you back £15,000.) Well, I’ve saved the oldest of the current lot for last; but is it the best? Not that the competition has been very stiff: the Clynelish 10 is the only one of the other seven that really seemed special to me. One way to find out.

Glenkinchie 27, Special Release 2023 (58.3%; refill American & European oak barrels and butts; from a bottle split)

Nose: A mix of floral and fruity (citrus) notes and oak (dusty and spicy). On the second sniff the fruit moves towards apple and there’s some pastry crust to go with it. No real change to speak of with time. A few drops of water push the oak back and pull out more cream to go with the fruit and more of the florals.

Palate: Comes in with a big oaky bite but the sweet notes are there too. Hot but approachable at full strength; decent texture. On the second sip it’s still mostly about the oak, much spicier now. Continues in this vein for a bit and then there’s more citrus (orange peel), a bit of apricot, and more floral sweetness. Water amps the floral notes up even more and pulls out some pineapple to go with it.

Finish: Long. The spice (cinnamon, pepper) lingers for a long time. With time and water the fruit lingers and the oak recedes a little—though the spice still has the last word.

Comments: Must have been more barrels than butts, given the amount of oak spice on the palate. With time, though, the fruit and florals gain the upper hand. This one needs some patience and a bit of water to show its best self. As to whether that best self is worth $400…

Rating: 87 points.