Blair Athol 12, 2009 (Cadenhead)


Let’s bring this week of reviews of bourbon hogsheads bottled by Cadenhead to a close. The week started with a Glenburgie and continued with a Glentauchers. Both were bright, summery malts. For the last review, I have a non-Glen and non-Speyside distillery: Blair Athol. This is a 12 yo distilled in 2009. The last Blair Athol I reviewed was also a 12 yo distilled in 2009, and was at a very similar strength as this one—but that was a sherry butt. I liked that one but it stopped well short of excellence. Let’s see where this less adorned bourbon  cask falls.

Blair Athol 12, 2009 (59.8%; Cadenhead; bourbon hogshead; from a bottle split)

Nose: Fizzy lemon; that nutty note I often get in Blair Athol; baked apples; malt; a bit of damp oak. Continues in this vein for a while. With more time and air the acid backs off a little and lets more of the musky notes through—a floral note too now, or is that peach? With a few drops of water the acid recedes further; the nutty note and the damp oak are gone too.

Palate: Comes in with the acid leading, and it’s really quite tart (gooseberry). Approachable enough at the very high strength; rich texture. As it sits some other fruit begins to come through (ripe pear) but it also get a little yeasty (cider). Okay, time to add water. The yeast and the acid back off a bit now and there’s more of the ripe pear.

Finish: Medium-long. Not very much happening here neat: the acidic notes and the alcohol burn dominate and then it gets quite salty at the end. Sweeter here too with water.

Comments: One of the more bright and fruity Blair Athols I’ve had, I think—though I think I’ve mostly reviewed sherry casks in recent years. This is yet another summery malt. A little too acidic neat but water fixes that.

Rating: 84 points. (Pulled up by water.)


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