I enjoyed last week’s trio of Ardmore 23, 1997s from the SMWS (here, here and here). Let’s stay in the highlands to close out July and start August. First up is a young Ben Nevis bottled by the Single Malts of Scotland from a bourbon hogshead. It’s no secret that I am a big fan of Ben Nevis’ idiosyncratic profile, especially when emerging from bourbon casks. Let’s hope this one doesn’t let me down. This came to the US (not sure if it was an exclusive) and sold in the neighbourhood of $100.

Ben Nevis 9, 2012 (57.5%; Single Malts of Scotland; bourbon hogshead; from a bottle split)

Nose: Ah yes, that familiar mix of malt, yeast, salted nuts and mineral notes. On the second sniff, tart apple, gooseberry and melon emerge; toasted oak beneath the fruit. A little more acidic with time. With a few drops of water there’s quite a bit of citronella and paraffin and less oak.

Palate: Comes in as indicated by the nose but as I swallow there’s some leafy smoke as well. Was this a cask that had previously held peated whisky? A little more melon on the second sip. As it sits the muskier fruit expands: more melon and also hints of passionfruit. That initial leafy smoke is only a hint in the background now. Brighter and more peppery with water.

Finish: Long. The fruit and oak give way to prickly pepper. Develops as on the palate with time. With water there’s less oak here; some wet stones instead.

Comments: Very Ben Nevis, which is to say, very good. There are very few distilleries whose spirit can be so good at a young age as Ben Nevis’, especially from bourbon casks. $100 is a bit much for a 9 yo whisky but in the abstract I’d be happy if I had a bottle of this.

Rating: 87 points.