
Last week I reviewed a 19 yo Lagavulin released in 2015. This week I have for you a review of a 20 yo Aberlour released in 2011. This was bottled by Single Malts of Scotland, which was then just one of the Whisky Exchange’s labels. Some years later they spun their independent bottling concern off as a separate concern, Elixir Distillers. But back in December 2011 when I purchased this, all of that was some distance in the future. And you’ll know 2011 was a lot more than 13 years ago when I tell you that this 20 yo single cask whisky at cask strength from a well-known distillery cost all of $77. Well, I’ve finally got around to opening the bottle. As always, I have no idea why I waited so long, especially as I rather enjoy bourbon cask Aberlour—see here, here and here for a few reviews. Most official releases from the distillery involve sherry maturation; in fact, I can’t remember trying an official bourbon cask release that was not a hand-filled distillery exclusive. Alas, when I was at the distillery in 2018—when I did one of their tours with a friend—they did not have any casks available for hand-filling, leave alone any bourbon casks. Anyway, let’s get to this one now.
Aberlour 20, 1990 (56.1%; Single Malts of Scotland; hogshead 11201; from my own bottle)
Nose: Toasted oak, tart apple and lemon peel off the top. As it sits there’s some stewed pear and some spicier notes (clove, cinnamon), and the oak is joined by some sandalwood. With more time and air, the wood glue from the palate emerges here as well. A splash of water and the oak recedes; a cereal note emerges and the fruit gets sweeter.
Palate: The toasted oak, apple and lemon peel are joined by wood glue. Slightly hot but approachable enough at full strength; decent texture. More fruit after a but the oak also expands and gets more tannic. As on the nose, water pushes the oak back dramatically and amplifies the apple and especially the lemon.
Finish: Long. The oak is the dominant note here. Sweeter as it goes even as the oak gets spicier. As on the palate with water.
Comments: The bottle has been open for just about a week and these notes were taken from the third pour. Right now, neat, there’s a fair bit of oak. Water emphasizes the fruit and I like it a lot more diluted. I’ll be interested to see if the oak fades or expands as I get further into the bottle. I’ll try to remember to report back.
Rating: 87 points.