
If you’re a long-time, particularly dedicated reader of the blog [you are not], you might feel a sense of deja vu. Yes, I’ve reviewed the Talisker Manager’s Choice before. Almost five years ago, in fact. I loved it then. So why am I reviewing it again? Well, my initial review was of a sample from a friend’s bottle, and now I’ve finally gotten around to opening my own bottle (which I’d referred to in my previous review). And so I am curious to see how close the two experiences—one from a 1 oz sample taken from the end of the bottle’s life and one from the fourth pour from a freshly opened bottle—will be. I’ve not re-read the original review before taking these notes. Okay, let’s get to it.
Talisker 14, 1994, “Manager’s Choice” (58.6%; bodega sherry European oak cask; from my own bottle)
Nose: Very recognizably Talisker off the top with peppery peat and salt. Sweeter notes come up from below (pipe tobacco) along with beef bouillon and savoury gunpowder. Gets earthier as it sits with mushrooms—more specifically the liquor from soaking dried shiitake mushrooms. With more time there’s some orange peel in the mix and a touch of butterscotch as well. A few drops of water and the salt and orange peel combine and turn to preserved lime; a hint of apricot jam in there too.
Palate: Pretty much as indicated by the nose except the sweetness is more pronounced here. Quite approachable at full strength with rich texture. With the second sip the salt comes on very strong as well. The citrus emerges here too with time. Okay, let’s add some water. Gets quite Springbank/Longrow now with a lovely mix of peat, brine, spices and earthy notes.
Finish: Long. The peat expands here along with the salt and the gunpowder emerges again at the end. As on the palate with time and water.
Comments: The nose is great from the get-go; the palate needs water to reveal its best self. Reading my first set of notes again now, this tracks quite well. I look forward to seeing how the bottle develops with time and air.
Rating: 91 points.