May was going to be a month of single malt Scotch reviews but it turned more specifically into a month of reviews of sherry cask single malt Scotch whiskies. Things kicked off with an Ardmore 1977-2003 bottled by Scott’s Selection; next up was the 2011 release of the Glendronach 21, Parliament; last week I reviewed the 2018 release of the Springbank 15. And here now is a review of a Ben Nevis 22, 1991 bottled by Signatory. Whiskybase lists seven different casks of Ben Nevis 22, 1991 bottled by Signatory, but only two were at cask strength. This is one of the two. I’ve actually reviewed it before, back in 2020. That review was of a sample that had come to me from Michael Kravitz of Diving for Pearls (whose reviews I hope you are all still reading). I have to admit I had forgotten that I had already reviewed this but I’m always happy to re-review whiskies, especially when the first set of notes had come from a sample. Well, I really liked it back in 2020 from the 2 oz sample bottle and—spoiler alert—I can tell you that I really like it now that I have my own bottle open. These notes are being taken from the fourth pour from the bottle. Let’s get right to it.

Ben Nevis 22, 1991 (58.3%; Signatory; sherry butt 2382; from my own bottle)

Nose: Sweet orange juice mixed with lime and a touch of grapefruit; plus powdered ginger, salt and a mineral sharpness. On the second sniff that mineral note picks up a gasoline edge. As it sits the fruit gets muskier, more tropical: roasted pineapple, tart-sweet mango, a hint of passionfruit. With water the fruit  gets stickier and goes into overdrive—there’s less of the acidic and mineral notes now.

Palate: Comes in with the fruit—more acidic here—and roasted malt. Extremely approachable at full strength; rich texture. The fruit expands with every sip and gets sweeter with time; more of the roasted malt too as it sits. Okay, let’s add a bit of water. Ah yes, the fruit goes up to 11. Still acidic here but the passionfruit is emphasized.

Finish: Long. The citrus leads the way, and turns more bitter (peel rather than juice); the salt has the last word. As on the palate with time and water.

Comments: A brighter version of the sample I reviewed in 2020. The notes are very close now but I expect that as this bottle stays open, they will converge even further. I’ll report on developments. No need to change the rating.

Rating: 90 points.