Last month’s whisky reviews had a south coast of Islay theme (two Laphroaigs, a Lagavulin, and an Ardbeg). This was not planned. This month’s whisky reviews also have a theme; this time it’s planned. That theme is Yoichi Key Malts. Well, I don’t think these are actually called Key Malts anymore. But let me back up.

Once upon a time Nikka’s Yoichi distillery put out a flagship 15 yo whisky. This was an excellent whisky. At that time Nikka also bottled as distillery exclusives, at both Yoichi and their other distillery, Miyagikyo, the so-called Key Malts. These were 12 years old and comprised the component malts used in the vatting of Nikka’s mainline blends—I reviewed the 12 yo version of the Peaty & Salty back in 2019. The Yoichi 15 was discontinued a while ago, of course, as stocks of aged whisky were depleted. The component malts are still sold at the distillery in 500 ml bottles, but they’ve also lost their age statements and the Key Malts name. Nonetheless, when I was at the Yoichi distillery briefly in June I couldn’t resist buying the set of three Yoichi component malts anyway and I’m happy to say they survived the journey from first Hokkaido to Tokyo and then Tokyo to Minnesota. Starting with the Woody & Vanillic, I’ll be reviewing all three this month. The Peaty & Salty will be next and then the Sherry & Sweet. For my final booze post of the month I’ll post the results of my own blending experiments with these whiskies. I’m going to try them in different ratios and see which I like best. Okay, let’s get the series started!

Yoichi “Woody & Vanillic” (55%; from my own bottle)

Nose: Neither overly woody nor overly vanillic. Indeed, quite restrained on both those fronts. That’s not to say it’s not woody at all: it leads with with very nice toasted oak mixed with a biscuity sweetness. As it sits, some fruit emerges: apricot jam, plum sauce. Water brightens it up and pulls out some spicier oak—the fruit’s still there though.

Palate: As promised by the nose: just a lovely mix of toasted oak and sweeter notes. Very approachable at full strength; good texture. A little more oak grip and spice on subsequent sips but nothing that tips it out of balance. Spicier still with water (but not tannic).

Finish: Medium. Nothing new here and no off-notes develop as it fades. Longer with water and spicier here too.

Comments: Woody, yes, but not tannic or raw. As for the vanilla, it’s very muted. Most distilleries would be very happy to have this as a mainline release. By the way, this is a rare high strength whisky that I prefer neat (so far, that is—that may change with more air in the bottle).

Rating: 87 points.