Annoying the Whisky Retailers

Robot SantaIt’s the holiday season in the US and people are making recommendations for whisky related gifts. As my preferred stocking stuffer has always been coal I thought I would help instead by making some suggestions to whisky retailers to make online shopping less annoying. As I shop predominantly in the US this list is largely restricted to the practices of American retailers, and if some of the names I mention are less familiar it’s because they are stores in Minnesota. And I don’t mean to pick on the few stores I name–most of these issues are widespread, but I’ve encountered them myself at these stores. It goes without saying that almost all these retailers are in fact very helpful and when you call them it’s very easy to sort things out and get personalized help. But with a proper online store that shouldn’t be necessary.

I know this is a highly unoriginal list of complaints and also a highly unoriginal genre of blog post. But it’s maddening that so many of these problems persist in 2013. Continue reading

Amrut Intermediate Sherry (Batch 2)

Amrut Intermediate SherryThe Intermediate Sherry, which came/comes in a truly monstrous box (in terms of size and aesthetics), was one of Amrut’s very first complicatedly matured whiskies (I think the even more complicated Kadhambam was released around the same time–though it took longer to come to the US). As per the press release the spirit was matured first in ex-bourbon and virgin oak casks then in sherry casks and then finished once again in bourbon casks. It’s not clear how long each stage lasted. (As an aside, four of the six people whose approval is cited in the press release are/were putative amateurs; more evidence of how important amateurs are to the industry’s marketing.) It was a very successful release and paved the way for the Portonova which was matured in a similarly complicated way.

I quite liked it when the bottle was on the go (which is when this large reserve sample was put away) but didn’t feel it was so very different from more conventional sherried whiskies or that the quality quite justified the price (it hit the ground in the US at $119.99 or thereabouts). Of course, since then non-cs (but age stated) whiskies like the Yamazaki 18 have become even more expensive and even the Highland Park 18 is above $100 in most US markets (to name only two of my favourite sherried whiskies). Let’s see what I make of it tonight. Continue reading

Kirkland Speyside 18, Sherry Cask Finish

Kirkland Reserve 18

Kirkland is Costco’s private label brand used for everything from baby formula to 14 pc nativity sets (please keep the baby Jesus and his parents away from flame or heat source). This, however, is whisky, not recommended for babies and not, as far as I know, one of the gifts of the Magi. It is from the Speyside but as the distillery is not specified it could literally be from one of scores of candidates. This was matured in bourbon casks and finished in sherry. I’m not sure if it’s still available.

Kirkland Speyside 18 (40%; sherry finish; from a sample received in a swap)

Nose: Somewhat generic sherry notes–light caramel, a hint of maple syrup, some toffee and a touch of orange peel. The muskier fruit from the palate never shows up on the nose but it is quite balanced and pleasant. Continue reading

Jura, “Superstition”

Jura SuperstitionI have very little experience with Jura. I’ve had the 16 yo and that may be it (I have a vague memory of perhaps trying a couple of indies, but that was before I tracked these things and I may well be confusing them with something else, maybe Tobermory/Ledaig). This Superstition, a NAS, peated malt, is somewhat controversial. A lot of people I know online dislike it quite intensely. On the other hand, the friends who shared this sample with me like it a lot (they’re part of our local tasting group) and on their recent trip to Scotland this was one of their favourite whiskies*–and neither of them is an undiscriminating peathead, given to loving anything peaty simply on account of it being peaty. So, I’m intrigued to give it a go.

*Correction: This was a peaty whisky they enjoyed in Scotland but it was not one of their favourites on the trip.

Jura “Superstition” (43%; from a sample from friends)

The sample was poured a couple of weeks ago from a freshly opened bottle.

Nose: Sour at first then turns sweet in an herbal kind of way (in a root beery kind of way–not that this smells like root beer). Quite gingery but not particularly smoky; there’s some leafy, farmyardy peat–something rotting in wet undergrowth. With more time there’s some darker sweetness (some caramel); but then the sourness comes back again and now it’s a little vinegary. After a lot more time there’s a whiff of a stale ashtray into which water has been poured. Now with an actual drop of water the vinegariness recedes and there’s just a hint of lemon.

Palate: Somewhat thin mouthfeel and a somewhat indistinct jumble of flavours as pretty much everything on the nose kind of runs together. After a few more sips the peat is a little more evident and there’s some bonfire smoke (wet wood) and there’s that herbal sweetness too (with a bit of leather as well). With more time that gingeriness comes to the fore (powdered ginger)–reminiscent of the Glen Garioch Founder’s Reserve and also some Amruts (though this does not have any of the other qualities of most Amruts). Wait, a little bit of fruit seems to emerge late, but I can’t quite pick what it is. With a drop of water the fruit does become more expressive–dried apricot maybe?

Finish: Longer than expected. Mostly bitter caramel with some smoke on the edges. Water takes some of the bitter edge off.

Comments: Well, I do not like this as much as my friends do (or one of them at any rate) but nor do I find it particularly objectionable. Sorry to be boring. It seems like many other young whiskies, with the peat here probably masking some more obviously youthful notes; indeed, it’s not a million miles from some young Ledaigs. The late-developing fruit lifts it out of the high-70s.

Rating: 82 points. A little more texture and less sourness on the nose might have taken it higher.

Thanks to Clara and Rob for the sample!

Compass Box, Hedonism

Compass Box HedonismFollowing yesterday’s review of the Eleuthera, one of Compass Box’s vatted malts, here is the Hedonism, which may be the only all-grain blend they’ve released (at least in general release). I’ve not had too many Scotch grain whiskies, and those only much older single grains, which is a category that seems to be picking up steam among whisky geeks these days. The Hedonism also has old whisky in it and as per their site it’s all from 100% first-fill American oak barrels and/or rejuvenated American oak hogsheads. As they specify barrels and hogsheads this would imply that they’re ex-bourbon (sherry is also matured in American oak casks–European oak is used primarily during storage and shipping*–but in much larger butts or puncheons).

*This is something I learned recently from my friend Rich who visited a number of sherry bodegas in Spain earlier this year. Continue reading

Compass Box, Eleuthera

Compass Box EleutheraCompass Box, run by John Glaser, are a well-known and highly regarded independent bottler of blended and vatted Scotch Whiskies. They have released a number of vatted malts (this Eleuthera, Flaming Heart, Spice Tree, the Peat Monster etc.) as well as grain-malt blends (Asyla, Great King Street), a blend of grain whiskies (Hedonism), plus some experiments (Orangerie–an infused whisky). The Eleuthera, which is discontinued, is said to be a blend of 15 year old Clynelish and 12 yo Caol Ila; but the language on the Compass Box website suggests that these may not have been the only whiskies in the various releases before it went away. (“Typically it combined 15 year-old malt whisky from the village of Brora, aged in re-charred hogsheads, with 12 year-old malt from the village of Port Askaig.” [emphasis added])

Compass Box’s blends have a higher profile among whisky geeks than most blends; frankly, while I’ve liked all the ones I’ve tried fine, none have overly impressed me. They do have a very bespoke presentation and Glaser is both engaging and very transparent with his methods, and so I always want to like their whiskies more than I do. Let’s see if this Eleuthera will live up to the hype. Continue reading

Coming Soon…

I didn’t get around to reviewing all the whiskies I’d hoped to post notes on in October, and the leftovers will definitely go up this month. My plan is also to clear out a lot of samples. Who knows if I’ll get to everything again this month, but here’s the proposed lineup (order to be determined by mood on any given evening):

Amrut Intermediate Sherry
Bowmore 20, 1991, A.D. Rattray
Bowmore 21, 1982, Prime Malts
Caperdonich 12, 1998, Single Malts of Scotland
Caperdonich 18, 1994, Sovereign
Charbay Lot 5
Compass Box, Eleuthera
Compass Box, Hedonism
Compass Box, Flaming Heart
Corsair Triple Smoke
Costco, Kirkland 18, Speyside
Isle of Jura, “Superstition”
Jameson 18
Jameson Select Reserve, Black Barrel
Kavalan Single Malt Whisky
Kavalan Concertmaster Port Cask Finish
Kavalan Conductor
Lagavulin 12 CS 2010
Lagavulin 12 CS 2011
Lagavulin 12 CS 2012
Laphroaig Cairdeas 2013, Port Wood
Old Pulteney WK 217

So, a fairly large proportion of non-Scotch and non-single malt whisky this month. And the long threatened post on inconsistencies in the whisky community’s response to people involved with the “investment whisky” phenomenon will also finally drop this month.

Monkey Shoulder, Batch 27

Monkey ShoulderMonkey Shoulder is a vatted/blended malt from William Grant & Sons, the family owned company who are the proprietors of Glenfiddich, Balvenie and (the now defunct) Kininvie, and the bottlers of various malt-grain blends besides. This, as I say, is a blend of malts from their three distilleries*; and until very recently was of note, among other things, because it was the only form in which Kininvie (the smallest of their three distilleries, producing for their blends till 2010 when it was closed) could be said to be available in malt form, albeit blended with its better known siblings. Recently, however, a fairly old Kininvie single malt has suddenly seen the light of day. I’m not sure what brought that on or what the fate of this vatted malt may be if the remaining stock of Kininvie is also now to be set aside for release as single malt. Given the low price of this bottle (<$30 in most places in the US), it seems likely that Kininvie forms the bulk of the vatting and there can only be so much of it to go around.

It's an attractive bottle, even if the whisky inside is of a suspiciously bronzed hue, and reports are generally good. I've been looking forward to try it for some time now.

*Note: See the comment below from Florin with a link to another blog where a brand ambassador is quoted as saying that Monkey Shoulder was only originally composed of malts from Glenfiddich, Balvenie and Kininvie and has since contained other Speyside malts as well. I guess that means Kininvie’s closure should have no effect on the future of the blend. Now whether future iterations will be very like this one is therefore hard to say.

Monkey Shoulder, Batch 27 (43%; from my own bottle)

Nose: Honey and toffee with light caramel come wafting out of the glass. Then a malty, grassy note emerges underneath along with some toasted wheat/wood. Some light orange peel and clove and nutmeg after a bit; with more time the orange peel is far more assertive. Water doesn’t really do it any favours, mostly bringing out a dusty, salty note.

Palate: Light but not particularly thin. Very much as on the nose: the honey/toffee/caramel combo are the story on the palate as well. And just as on the nose, there’s citrus too after a while; not as much of the spice though. With time some woody/chicory notes. Water knocks the balance off a bit.

Finish: Medium. Gets a little metallic and bitter; later this goes away and there’s a faintly spicy woody quality instead..

Comments: Not a whole lot of character but very nice (but pass on water). And comparable, I think, to a number of single malts of similar profile that cost more. A good bottle to have on hand for easy drinking or for guests who aren’t that into single malt whisky as it could function very well as a gateway malt–especially to the sherried Speyside style. That said, the finish is a bit of a letdown–though this could very well be due to this being a freshly opened bottle. I’ll be interested to come back to it again soon.

Rating: 82 points.