My second week of reviews of releases from Mackillop’s Choice got off to a strong start yesterday with a 19 yo Scapa (see here, here and here for the reviews from the first Mackillop’s Choice week back in May). We’re now on shakier ground for the second review. It’s of a Bowmore that’s a year older than the Scapa but was distilled right in the thick of Bowmore’s dangerous decade: the 1980s. Much—though, it must be said, not all—of the whisky distilled in this period at the great Islay distillery has been marred to some degree or the other by a soapy, artificially floral character.

The problem had begun to sort itself out by the end of the decade—and was mostly gone by the early 1990s—but today’s whisky was distilled in 1983. Will it be an exception or an exemplar of everything people dislike about Bowmore from that era? Only one way to find out.

Bowmore 20, 1983 (43%; Mackillop’s Choice; from a bottle split)

Nose: Light mineral peat, salt crystals, mellow floral notes. On the second sniff there’s more fruit (melon) to go with the flowers, and some pepper. Not much change with a few drops of water.

Palate: The florals and fruit hit in the form of talcum powder here; peppery peat as I swallow. Decent bite and texture at 43%. The talcum powder keeps expanding and picks up more glycerine as it goes. Wait, there’s a new note: like licking glue on an old envelope. With water there’s more of the paper and the pepper and a little less of the talcum powder.

Finish: Medium. Oak and then smoke at the end. After a bit it’s all about the talcum powder and soap here as well. As on the palate with water.

Comments: Yes, it’s one of those soapy-floral 1980s Bowmores. I have to say I rather like the nose—it’s on the palate where it becomes difficult to find anything to like. A little better with water but not so very much.

Rating: 75 points. (Pulled up by water.)