Let’s get 2024 off to a smoky start. My first whisky review of the year is of a Croftengea, one of the peaty brands produced by Loch Lomond. I’ve really enjoyed most of the Croftengeas I’ve had in recent years; that mix of Loch Lomond fruit and heavy peat is a very nice one. Let’s see if that’s in evidence  here.

Croftengea 12, 2006 (53.9%; First Editions; refill hogshead 15540; from a bottle split)

Nose: Big farmy peat with some rubber mixed in; some citrus and salt in there too. The salt expands as it sits and more fruit begins to emerge with it (tart apple, Makrut lime). With more time there’s some vanilla and some cream as well. A few drops of water make the whole sweeter.

Palate: Not as farmy here; instead there’s some sweetness along with ashier smoke. A good bite at full strength; rich texture. The fruit expands with every sip and after 10 minutes or so of airing, it’s a lovely cocktail of sweetened Makrut lime juice and ashy smoke. With more time the lime is joined by some pineapple and some tart-sweet mango. Water pushes the smoke back a bit and emphasizes the sweeter fruit.

Finish: Long. Follows the progression on the palate with the smoke lingering to the end. As on the palate with water.

Comments: That big farmy blast off the top had me a bit wary at first but it came along very nicely. Smoked lime custard: what’s not to like?

Rating: 88 points.