
And another Derrumbes to end this week of mezcal reviews (see here for the Amaras Cupreata, and here for the Derrumbes San Luis Potosi). This one comes from the state of Tamaulipas in Northeast Mexico. It is not made from a single agave varietal but is an ensamble or blend of spirit made from different varietals. Let’s get right to it,
Derrumbes, Tamaulipas (47%; Lot 10; from my own bottle)
Nose: A little bit of acetone off the top. Green peppers here as well—a mix of bell and serrano—but they’re not as pickled in vinegar as in the previous two. Slightly bitter on the second sip and there’s some vinegar now. No real sign of smoke in this one either. As it sits, lime emerges along with some pepper; some very mild lactic notes as well (buttermilk).
Palate: Comes in sweeter than one the nose but the green pepper is in the lead here as well. Bitter greens as I swallow. A good drinking strength; decent texture. The lime expands here as well with each sip but the vegetal notes dominate. As it sits it gets more rooty and herbal (sage, dill), like one of those funky European eau de vies. With water the rooty, herbal notes expand.
Finish: Medium-long. The bitter greens dominate here. More lime here too with time. As on the palate with water though there’s also a bit of a burst of charred pineapple now.
Comments: Probably the least fruity and floral of the mezcals I’ve recently tried. I do prefer the more exuberant profiles but this is an interesting austere change-up.
Rating: 85 points.