Here is the second of this week’s reviews of peated whiskies from Islay. (See here for Monday’s review of an indie Laphroaig.) Today I have for you a 14 yo Caol Ila that was matured in a mix of refill and freshly charred hogsheads. This is an official release, part of a Diageo series named Four Corners. The series also includes releases from Glenkinchie, Cardhu and Clynelish. Together these are said to form the four corners of Scotland (let’s not look too closely at an actual map), or at least of Diageo’s Scottish portfolio map (let’s not look too closely at an actual map). This might put you in mind of Diageo’s old Classic Malts lineup but I believe this series may also have something to do with all four distilleries having recently been refurbished in a major way. I could be wrong: as I’ve noted before, it’s been years since I’ve paid attention to whisky industry news. The most shocking thing about the series though is that all four releases not only have age statements but are also in their teens. And all are at cask strength. I’m not sure what’s gotten into Diageo. Well, nothing too drastic as the prices were rather keen—obviously no lapse on that front. Anyway, let’s see what this is like.

Caol Ila 14, Four Corners (53%; refill and freshly charred hogsheads; from a bottle split)

Nose: More than a little closed at first sniff, with some carbolic peat (Dettol), lemon and cereals coiled around each other. Takes a few beats for all of it to start to unfurl and then there’s quite a bit of salt crystals and some shells. Sweeter as it goes with some vanilla emerging. With a few drops of water the fruit is sweeter too (there’s a touch of pineapple).

Palate: Comes in peatier on the palate with the smoke turning quite ashy as I swallow; a lot of lemon here too; not as much salt as on the nose. Very approachable at full strength; rich texture. Far less of the cereals and coastal notes here. More char in the smoke as it goes and there’s less lemon. Water pushes the smoke back and brings out more of the citrus (lime rather than lemon now) and also the pineapple that shows up on the nose.

Finish: Long. The ashy smoke goes on, the salt emerges to join it. Sweeter here with time with a mix of vanilla, hot pebbles and milky cocoa. As on the palate with water; less salty too now.

Comments: Neat this was dominated by smoke. Water brought out more complexity and more of the Caol Ila elegance. I liked it quite a bit, finally. A pity about the price.

Rating: 87 points.