Next up in my “Open ’em and drink ’em” campaign is an 18-year old Ben Nevis. This was distilled in 1995 and matured in a refill bourbon hogshead till 2013, when it was bottled by the boutique German independent bottler, The Whisky Agency. As I haven’t followed the whisky world closely in some years now, I had to look at Whiskybase to confirm that The Whisky Agency are still around—though they don’t seem to be releasing quite as much as they once did (if this is an incorrect impression, please write in below to correct me). I remember when, along with fellow German concern, Malts of Scotland, The Whisky Agency were one of the most reliable, most prolific and, it must be said, one of the more expensive (and yet sought after) bottlers. Of course, what seemed like high prices 10-15 years ago would seem like utter bargains in this insane market. My spreadsheet tells me I paid $92 for this 18 yo in 2015. That’s another way the market was different, of course: bottles from this single hogshead from a name bottler hung around for almost two years. Anyway, after sitting on the bottle for almost 10 years, I opened it a week ago. I enjoyed the first few pours very much and now it’s time for some notes.

Ben Nevis 18, 1995 (51.8%; The Whisky Agency; refill bourbon hogshead; from my own bottle)

Nose: Mineral brightness, lime (lots of it), a bit of freshly cut grass; sweeter, muskier fruit ready to break out right below. The fruit expands a bit with time but never quite pops out fully. Some cream emerges along with some vanilla and some floral sweetness. With water some of that chalk from the palate pops out and the musky fruit recedes

Palate: Comes in as predicted by the nose and then the musky fruit uncoils as I swallow (pineapple, makrut lime, hints of passionfruit). A good bite at full strength; good texture. A little chalky on the second sip with some bitterness emerging as well (more walnut peels than oak extract). The bitter note takes on a slightly grainy (as in grain whisky) quality with time. More acidic with water, with the lime (peel mostly) coming back strong.

Finish: Long. The fruit opens up further and then yields to the mineral, acidic notes at the end. As on the palate with time and water.

Comments: The first couple of pours from this bottle were rather fruity. Somehow that fruit has become less exuberant since, with more mineral and bitter notes dominating. Don’t get me wrong, there’s still a fair bit of fruit—but it’s not the fruit bomb it was shaping up to be when I first opened it. I’ll be interested to see if the fruit re-emerges as the bottle sits with more air in it.

Rating: 87 point.