
I’ve previously reviewed a whisky from Yoichi called “Peaty & Salty” but this is not a re-review or a review of another iteration of that one. Or maybe it is a review of another iteration. That previous review was of a 12 yo “Peaty & Salty” from what Nikka then called their Key Malts—the component malts that were used to compose their blends. Stocks of aged whisky in Japan dropped dramatically after that and age statements disappeared from almost all official distillery releases (Yoichi’s classic 15 yo is yet to be revived). As to whether the current Yoichi component malts being sold at the distillery (which is where I acquired a set of three this past June) is otherwise made just as the 12 yo used to be, I don’t know. And, of course, I do not know how old this current release is. I can say that I rather liked the current NAS “Woody & Vanillic” (which I reviewed last week). And having liked the 12 yo incarnation of “Peaty & Salty” a lot back in 2019 (my review is here), I have high hopes for this one as well. Let’s see if they’re repaid in kind.
Yoichi “Peaty & Salty” (55%; from my own bottle)
Nose: More salt than peat off the top and the peat when it does emerge is not particularly phenolic. There’s some rubber gaskets and a bit of wood char. As it sits, some sweeter notes emerge, a little biscuity, a little creamy. The cream expands dramatically with a few drops of water and the salt recedes; the lime emerges here too now. As it sits again, the salt emerges as preserved lime and there are nice licks of smoke around it: preserved lime that’s been lightly smoked?
Palate: Leads here with the salt as well but there’s more smoke (still charred wood rather than anything phenolic). Quite approachable at full strength; decent texture. With time there’s some ash and some lime peel. Okay, let’s add water. Better balance with water just as on the nose but the ashy smoke is bigger too now.
Finish: Long. The salt lingers through the finish; the smoke expands to share top billing—there’s definitely some just stubbed cigarette butts in there. Water pushes the salt back here too and lets the smoke out in front.
Comments: This really comes alive with water. Whatever the age of this, I see that my notes are quite similar to those I recorded for the 12 yo version seven years ago. Make of that what you will.
Rating: 87 points (pulled up by water).