Adagio (Florence, June 2023)

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Here is an account of our last formal meal in Florence. We spent the next day in Pisa, packing a lunch of sandwiches from the excellent Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio near our flat. And for dinner that last night we did takeaway pizza. I’ll have reports on both the market and the pizza later but here now is a look at our dinner at Adagio the evening prior.

Though not quite as close as Ghianda or our pizza destination the next evening, Adagio was located only a very short walk from our flat—something we appreciated after a long day of museuming. We also appreciated that it was quite well-cooled (as you know, it’s been a very hot summer in Italy). It’s an interestingly shaped restaurant, with tables set in a narrow hallway as you enter and about halfway through. At the very end it opens into a wider, regulation dining room. We were seated at one of the tables about halfway through, with lots of natural light streaming in through the skylights. The restaurant was fairly empty when we arrived, not too long after they opened, but filled up steadily as the evening went on. Having only eaten sandwiches for lunch (at Mercato Centrale), we were hungry and accordingly quickly got down to business. Continue reading →

West Cork, Black Cask

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Irish Whiskey Week 2 has gone pretty well so far. On Monday I reviewed W.D. O’Connell’s Bill Phil, a peated whiskey that I quite liked. On Tuesday I reviewed a blend from Walsh Whiskey: The Irishman: The Harvest. While I didn’t give that one a very high score in the abstract, I thought it was very good for what it is: an entry-level blend. Here now is another entry-level blend. This one is from West Cork Distillers and unlike the other two, which are both sourced whiskeys, it is actually made by West Cork. Or so I assume anyway: they do have their own distillery and it produces a fairly large volume of spirit. As per their website, they have eight pot stills and two column stills and have the capacity to produce 4 million liters of spirit per year—though it’s less clear how much they actually produce. (They also bill themselves as the largest fully Irish-owned distillery in Ireland but that’s neither here nor there.) The Black Cask is comprised of 66% grain and 34% malt whiskey. It’s called the Black Cask because after three years of maturation in first-fill bourbon casks it spends another year in heavily charred bourbon casks. Quite a bit more grain in the blend than I would prefer and I’m always given pause by heavily charred bourbon casks and the potential for the contents to turn into vanilla bombs. Has that happened here or does the char tame the grain and youth? Let’s see. Continue reading →

Shopping at Mercato Centrale

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Last week I posted about our lunch at Mercato Centrale in Florence. That report was focused on the food options at the large market: some of which are located downstairs—where we ate—and most of which are located upstairs. Of course, Mercato Centrale is not just a food hall. The food counters, and especially the formal food hall upstairs, may be what attracts the tourists, but the ground floor houses a large and active market. At the front of the market are the salumi and cheese and pasta and dry goods sellers; but if you go a bit further in you’ll find the butchers, the fishmongers and the fruit and vegetable sellers. We wandered the market for a while after eating our sandwiches and pizza and here now is a look at that part of Mercato Centrale. Continue reading →

The Irishman – The Harvest

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I quite enjoyed the first of this week’s trio of Irish whiskeys. That was yesterday’s Bill Phil from W.D. O’Connell. That was a heavily peated, single malt from an undisclosed distillery (probably Great Northern). Today I have a blended whiskey from Walsh Whiskey. Walsh Whiskey are blenders who produce two lines/brands: The Irishman and the more famous Writers’ Tears. I confess that I am not really sure what the distinction between the two lines is supposed to be. At any rate, there are a number of labels in each line. Currently, there seem to be six different iterations of The Irishman. Today I am reviewing what I think is the entry-level whiskey in the line: the Harvest. This is a blend of triple distilled whiskeys: 70% single malt and 30% single pot still, all matured in bourbon barrels. What the sources of the single malt and single pot still spirit that goes into the blend are, I don’t know. I don’t expect an entry-level blend to be anything very out of the ordinary but I am hoping that it won’t be extraordinarily bad. Let’s see. Continue reading →

Bill Phil, Peated Series (W.D. O’Connell)

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The last in last week’s series of madeira cask whiskies was a Teeling. It wasn’t the best of the week but I liked it. And so, even though my first week of Irish whiskeys this summer didn’t go so well (three other Teelings: here, here and here), I’ll take a chance with another week. This time it’s all whiskeys and producers I knew nothing about till I purchased these miniatures from the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin. First up, is something called Bill Phil from W.D. O’Connell. W.D. O’Connell are independent bottlers who release a wide range of sourced whiskeys under their own labels. Bill Phil—the name refers to someone in the owners’ family history—is a batched release of heavily peated, triple-distilled single malt whiskey. People who know more than me say the source is probably the Great Northern Distillery. Full bottles have the batch numbers printed on the labels. This miniature does not. The current batch is Batch 5. Seems likely, I guess, that this would be from that batch but it’s hard to say for sure. (Batch 4 was released in the US apparently.)  All the batches are matured in first-fill bourbon barrels. The peating level is all the way up to 55 ppm, by the way. Okay, let’s see what it’s like. Continue reading →

Teeling 18, Madeira Cask (for Binny’s)

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Madeira cask whisky got off to a very good start on Monday with an Inchmurrin 13 bottled by the SMWS. It took a step back on Wednesday with a 5 yo Kilchoman. Today I have for you a review of a whiskey as old as the other two put together. Will it end the week on a high note? On the one hand it was a Binny’s selection—usually a good sign. On the other hand, it’s a Teeling and my recent experiences with Teeling were not positive (see here, here, and here). Of course, those three whiskies from their core range have no necessary relationship with this one. Most of these Teeling releases are sourced whiskies. Well, I’m not sure about the miniature of the Single Malt that I reviewed: their own malt whiskey is of age to be bottled. But this 18 yo is definitely sourced as there was no Teeling distillery 18 (or 21) years ago (this was bottled in 2020 from a single cask). Nor do I know if this was a full-term maturation or a finish. I can tell you, though, what I think of it. Continue reading →

Eating at Mercato Centrale (Florence, June 2023)

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Our second full day in Florence involved art and crowds, usually at the same time. We visited the Uffizi galleries in the morning and the Accademia (which houses Michelangelo’s David) in the afternoon. It was quite a nightmare getting into the latter (though well worth it once inside). But I digress: this is about our lunch, which was eaten in between those visits at another very popular tourist destination in Florence: Il Mercato Centrale. It is located in the historic center, within easy walking distance from most of the sights you are likely to be visiting. Well, in late June the walk was made less easy by the heat, but the market itself is indoors once you get there—walking through rows of covered outdoor stalls selling various knick knacks—and reasonably well cooled. There are two levels. The ground floor is where the market proper is along with a few food counters. The main food section is upstairs and it was a zoo when we visited (and I assume this is usually the case in high tourist season). Accordingly, we ate downstairs instead, everything we wanted to eat being available there. What did we want to eat? Read on. Continue reading →

Kilchoman Madeira Cask, 2022

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This week’s whisky reviews are all of malts that were matured in madeira casks. I rather liked Monday’s Inchmurrin. Today we add some peat to the mix with the 2022 release of Kilchoman’s Madeira Cask. This is quite a bit younger than the 13 yo Inchmurrin, being just over five years of age. This is not one of Kilchoman’s 100% Islay releases and is peated to 50 ppm. There were 17,000 bottles released, which is why they call it a “limited edition”. As it happens, the last Kilchoman I reviewed was also from madeira casks—though in that case it was a finish and not a full-term maturation. Regardless, I quite liked that one. It was two years older than this one (and a single cask) but I thought it punched well above its age. This is a vatting of 46 fresh madeira hogsheads and it’s unlikely that they’d all be of equal quality. Let’s see if the averaging worked out well and if I like it as much as the previous. Continue reading →

La Cucina del Ghianda (Florence, June 2023)

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It’s been almost ten days since I posted a report on our first meal out in Florence (at Acquacotta). I’d hoped to get this report on the second up last week but it’s been a hectic week on my program in Ireland, as we travelled from Dublin to Belfast for a week. Now that I’m almost set to return to Dublin (where the family have been chilling), here is that second report. It is of dinner at La Cucina del Ghianda, which was located mere steps from our flat on via dell’Agnollo. Not only was it conveniently located, it also came highly recommended from a few directions. And so I’d made a reservation (via Google) as soon as our dates were set, and we were very much looking forward to eating there. I am glad to report that it indeed turned out to be a very good meal. Continue reading →

Inchmurrin 13, 2007 (SMWS 112.82)

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Last week was a week of reviews of whiskies from distilleries in the highlands (Ben Nevis, Edradour and Clynelish). We’ll stay in the highlands to start this week, but only for a day. This week’s theme is whiskies matured or finished in madeira casks. First up is a 13 yo Inchmurrin (i.e fruity, unpeated Loch Lomond) that was bottled by the SMWS in a second-fill madeira hogshead. As far as I can make out, this was a full-term maturation. In the UK etc. this was given the name “I’ll beetroot to you”; in the US it was dubbed “Beat it”. Why not “Beet it”? Okay, let’s get to it.

Inchmurrin 13, 2007 (57.6%; SMWS 112.82; 2nd-fill madeira hogshead; from a bottle split)

Nose: Citrus (mix of lemon and orange peel) and oak off the top. After a minute the citrus expands and picks up some pineapple; the oak picks up some polish and there’s a slight metallic note and a leafy quality as well. As it sits there’s some pastry crust. With a bit of water it’s all about the orange peel and the polished oak. Continue reading →

Clynelish 11, 2011 (Single Malts of Scotland)

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This week of reviews of malts from Highlands distilleries has gone really well so far. I started with a 9 yo Ben Nevis on Monday. That was a single bourbon hogshead. I continued on Wednesday with a 10 yo Edradour. That was a single oloroso sherry cask. Let’s close out the week now with the oldest of the three, an 11 yo Clynelish. We’re back to bourbon maturation for this one, albeit in a barrel rather than a hogshead. I am hoping for good things—and trying not to think of the fact that I was not very impressed by the last bourbon barrel Clynelish I reviewed, especially since, like this one, that was also bottled by Single Malts of Scotland (though that one was a vatting of three barrels, not a single barrel). On the other hand, I really liked the one before that—coincidentally also an 11 yo—which I reviewed at the end of another week of Highlands reviews, almost exactly a year ago. Let’s see where this one falls. Continue reading →

Edradour 10, 2012 (for Spec’s)

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Highlands week began at Ben Nevis on Monday. It continues a little further east and south at Edradour. I had reviewed three Edradours in June of this year: two with sherry involvement (here and here) and one with marsala involvement (here). Today’s cask is a single oloroso sherry cask that was bottled for Spec’s in Texas. Let’s see what it’s like.

Edradour 10, 2012 (57.6%; for Spec’s; oloroso cask #2; from a bottle split)

Nose: Raisins, cola concentrate, roasted malt and that very Edradour nutty/beany complex. More of the roasted malt and the nuts with time. Water brings out some earthy notes but otherwise it’s pretty consistent

Palate: Comes in as predicted by the nose but sweeter. Approachable at full strength; good texture. Quite consistent as it sits; a little more salt maybe. With more time it gets a bit spicy—some pepper, some oak grip. Water emphasizes the spice, pulls out a bit of dried orange peel and pushes the sweeter notes back. Continue reading →

Coming Soon…

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In August I will review some whiskies distilled and matured in Scotland and Ireland. That’s as specific as I can get on that front. This month I am not asking you to help me choose what to review as I don’t really have much of a plan beyond the highlands whiskies on the docket for this week. I do have some single malt reviews on the bench but I had hoped to review more Irish whiskies while in Dublin and am still hoping I might have the time and opportunity to do. The former is in shorter supply than the latter. The excellent Celtic Whiskey Shop certainly has enough miniatures of Irish whiskies I have never tasted (or in many cases, heard of) to keep me going all month. But the program I am directing here is running me ragged and most evenings I am too tired to drink whiskey, leave alone review it. Let’s see how it goes. Continue reading →

Ben Nevis 9, 2012 (Single Malts of Scotland)

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I enjoyed last week’s trio of Ardmore 23, 1997s from the SMWS (here, here and here). Let’s stay in the highlands to close out July and start August. First up is a young Ben Nevis bottled by the Single Malts of Scotland from a bourbon hogshead. It’s no secret that I am a big fan of Ben Nevis’ idiosyncratic profile, especially when emerging from bourbon casks. Let’s hope this one doesn’t let me down. This came to the US (not sure if it was an exclusive) and sold in the neighbourhood of $100.

Ben Nevis 9, 2012 (57.5%; Single Malts of Scotland; bourbon hogshead; from a bottle split)

Nose: Ah yes, that familiar mix of malt, yeast, salted nuts and mineral notes. On the second sniff, tart apple, gooseberry and melon emerge; toasted oak beneath the fruit. A little more acidic with time. With a few drops of water there’s quite a bit of citronella and paraffin and less oak. Continue reading →

Trattoria Acquacotta (Florence, June 2023)

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From Rome we travelled to Florence, and so will my restaurant reports. We arrived in Florence on a Sunday. This made dinner slightly complicated as a lot of restaurants in Florence are closed on Sunday. Our AirBnB host came to our rescue: she had recommendations for a number of restaurants in our general vicinity and among them was one that is actually open on Sundays: Trattoria Acquacotta. They are located a little outside the core tourist zone on Via dei Pilastri, right where it hits Via Fiesolana. Though keep in mind that Florence is much smaller than Rome, which means that if you’re visiting as a tourist, odds are good that everywhere you might want to go will be within walking distance. As it turned out, all the places we were to eat at were not only within walking distance, two were literally steps from our flat and a third was less than 5 minutes walk away. Acquacotta was far away by comparison, being about an 8 minute walk. I am happy to say that while it wasn’t the best restaurant meal we ate in Florence, it was well worth the walk. Continue reading →

Ardmore 23, 1997 (SMWS 66.195)

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Let’s close out SMWS Ardmore 23, 1997 week by going back a bit in their sequence. I began on Monday with cask 66.198, and continued on Tuesday with cask 66.199. Here now is cask 66.195. It too received a long finish/double maturation. But unlike 66.198 (French oak) and 66.199 (HTMC bourbon cask), this one went into a first-fill ex-oloroso cask (another barrique) for the last two years of maturation. Well, I really liked 66.197, which also spent its last two years in oloroso wood (though refill in that case). Will this one—which the SMWS named “If These Walls Could Talk”—be as good? Let’s see.

Ardmore 23, 1997 (48.7%; SMWS 66.195; 1st-fill ex-oloroso barrique; from a bottle split)

Nose: A little flat—there’s some leafy sherry and some damp oak; some sweeter fruit and some dried orange peel peep in from behind but don’t make much of an impression. Not much smoke to be found either. As it sits there’s a fair bit of citronella and the sweeter fruit does emerge (over-ripe plum, apricot jam). A few drops of water and…it sort of goes back to how it started. Continue reading →

Trattoria Pennestri (Rome, June 2023)

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Here now is a report on our last meal out in Rome. For lunch on our last full day we’d taken the bus out to Testaccio and eaten at the Mercato Testaccio. In the evening we once again traveled out of the main tourist center for dinner—this time by the metro to the Ostiense neighbourhood, for dinner at Trattoria Pennestri. Like Santo Palato, this is a relatively new restaurant, helmed by an Italian-Danish chef (with the last name Pennestri) and an Argentinean wine director. They are known for their mix of classic and updated Roman cuisine and have received a fair bit of recognition in the press. We were very much looking forward to the meal. Well, I can report that the food was indeed excellent; alas, the meal was marred more than a little by another factor. Continue reading →