Category Archives: Distillery

Tobermory 17, 2004

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After a week of Kilkerrans that began well (here and here) and ended not as well, here is a week of reviews themed not on distillery but on cask type. This week’s reviews will all be of sherry cask-matured whiskies, and for a secondary filter they’re all from distilleries located on different islands. First up is a Tobermory.

I have a checkered relationship with Tobermory. I’ve not enjoyed very much of the spirit bottled as Tobermory (the name for the unpeated whisky made at the distillery). On the other hand, I’ve liked a lot of the Ledaig I’ve had (the name for the peated whisky made at the distillery). In particular, I’ve liked a lot of the heavily sherried Ledaig I’ve had. Well, this Tobermory is from a single oloroso cask. Is that a good sign? Let’s see. Continue reading →

Kilkerran 15, 2004 (for Denmark)

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Kilkerran week has gone very well so far. It started on Monday with Batch 6 of the Heavily Peated, which was in line with the high quality of Batch 4 and Batch 5. It continued on Wednesday with one of the 15 yo casks released in 2019 to mark the distillery’s 15th anniversary. That was the bourbon cask released in the UK. Here now is another of those commemorative 15 yo casks. This one was released in the Danish market and has a somewhat unusual composition. The spirit in it spent 10 years in a port pipe before being put into a refill bourbon hogshead for another five. (There were three of these port–>refill bourbon casks, by the way: another one went to Germany and the third to Italy.) Normally, in the case of double-matured malts you see the first maturation in bourbon casks before the spirit hits the cask that held the much heavier spirit. Well, if the results are good I guess it doesn’t really matter in what order the maturation happened. Let’s see if that is indeed the case here. Continue reading →

Kilkerran 15, 2004 (for the UK)

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This week of reviews of Kilkerran (the name of the whisky distilled at the Glengyle distillery in Campbeltown) began on Monday with Batch 6 of their Heavily Peated series. I rather liked that one (as I had Batch 5 and Batch 4 before it). The releases in the Heavily Peated series are, of course, all NAS. The other Kilkerrans I am reviewing this week both have age statements; And, if not for the 16 yo—which I reviewed earlier this year—at 15 years of age, both would handily be the oldest Kilkerrans I’ve yet reviewed. Both are part of a batch of single casks of various types that were bottled in 2019 to commemorate the distillery’s 15th anniversary. Most of these were bottled for specific markets. (One even came to the US; I shudder to think of how much would have been asked for it, given the premium we have to pay for anything the importer, Pacific Edge, brings in.) This one, a single refill bourbon hogshead was for the UK market. Let’s see what it’s like. Continue reading →

Kilkerran Heavily Peated, Batch 6

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Let’s start September with a week of Campbeltown whiskies, specifically with three Kilkerrans. First up is Batch 6 of their Heavily Peated series, which is now up to Batch 8. I was unenthused by Batch 1 but then was surprised by how much I liked both Batch 4 and Batch 5, both of which had a lovely mix of smoke and fruit and salt. I’m hoping Batch 6 will continue down that road. It has a different composition than all the earlier release. Batches 1 and 2 had a lot of sherry in the mix, being a vatting of 55% bourbon and 45% sherry casks. Batches 3 and 4 dropped the sherry component to 20% and Batch 5 took it down a notch lower still, being comprised of 85% bourbon cask and 15% sherry cask spirit. With Batch 6 the sherry component ticked up a bit again, but only to 25%. I’m hoping it will be in line with Batch 4 and 5.  Alas, all non-core range Kilkerran is now heavily allocated and not easy to find and Batch 6 is in any case long gone. So this review has very low use value. Why change now? Continue reading →

Jack Ryan 11, “Haddington”

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One last whiskey review for the month, and one last Irish whiskey review for the month (and probably for a good while). This is yet another Irish whiskey that I had not heard of before I purchased a miniature. And this is yet another case of my lack of knowledge not being due to the whiskey being obscure. Like Monday’s Lambay, Jack Ryan whiskeys, it turns out, are available in the US as well. So you probably don’t need me to tell you that there is no Tom Clancy connection to the label. Jack Ryan’s are a concern that bill themselves as “whiskey finishers”. By which they mean that they purchase spirit and age and mature it in their own casks. Many (most?) of their releases do appear to be finishes in a conventional sense: i.e they involve a final step of maturation in a cask type other than the one in which the rest of the maturation took place. And sometimes there’s more than two types of casks involved. They currently have a 5 yo released named Raglan’s Road that starts out in bourbon casks, continues in madeira casks and finishes up in imperial stout casks. You might say that’s a very busy life for a 5 yo but then you’d be a boring stick-in-the-mud like me. The release I am reviewing today is positively old-fashioned by comparison, being both 11 years old and only having passed through two types of casks: bourbon and then Guyana rum. It’s the second release in a series called the “Generations Trilogy”, all single malt whiskeys. The first was a 10 yo; this is 11 years old; and the one that came after was 12 years old. The 11 yo bears the additional appellation, “Haddington”. This is a reference to Haddington Road in Dublin, home to the Ryan’s Beggars Bush pub. So it’s a whiskey with a lot of information attached to it. But is it any good? Let’s see. Continue reading →

Lambay Single Malt, Single Cask Strength

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I’ve been back in Minnesota for almost a week now, but let’s do another couple of Irish whiskeys to close out the month. Here is another from a producer that I had not heard of before I bought a miniature at the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin. I don’t mean to suggest that this indicates obscurity: indeed, Lambay is available in the US. It’s just that I know very little about the Irish whiskey scene, which seems to have expanded quite a bit in the last 10 years or so. As per their website, Lambay Whiskey launched in 2018. Lambay is not a distillery. All their whiskeys are sourced—where from is not mentioned, and nor have I seen a reference to age. The spirit is triple-distilled (always?), and then matured in bourbon casks before a final finish in cognac casks. Why cognac? The company is a collaboration between an Irish concern and Camus, the well-known cognac producer. Once in the cognac casks, the whiskey finishes maturing on Lambay Island (hence the name), just off the coast of Dublin. Their website lists some five regular releases. Of these, the Single Malt, Single Cask Strength is bottled not just at cask strength but from a single cask in each release. You would think this would make it easy to identify the release my miniature is from but there have been at least two casks bottled at 56.5%: casks 4613 and 2545. So it’s from one of those (or maybe another)—the label on the miniature does not list the bottling date or batch number. Anyway, let’s see what it’s like. Continue reading →

Writers’ Tears, Cask Strength

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My week of Writers’ Tears reviews comes to an end with what is, I think, the third in their trio of core releases: the Cask Strength. (See here for my review of the Copper Pot and here for my review of the Double Oak.) Like the other Writers’ Tears releases, the Cask Strength is a blend of Single Pot Still and Single Malt Irish whiskey. There’s no grain whiskey component: only barley. Of course the presence of the pot still component, not to mention the triple distillation, makes it different from your average Scottish single malt whisky. Like the Copper Pot, this is matured in bourbon barrels, but I’m not sure if there is any other relationship between them. By which I mean that I do not know if the Cask Strength is the cask strength version of the Copper Pot or even if the whiskeys that go into the two comes from the same sources. I do know that the Cask Strength costs far more than the Copper Pot. The current release was at 150 euros at Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin. This review is not of the current release, however. That one is at 54.8% abv. This one is at 53%. A number of prior releases have been at 53%, most recently in 2019. All three of the miniatures I reviewed this week came out of the attractive book packaging—I don’t know if that helps narrow things down. At any rate, here are my notes. Continue reading →

Writers’ Tears, Double Oak

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This week I am reviewing three different releases from Walsh Whiskey’s Writers’ Tears label. The week got off to a decent start yesterday with the Copper Pot, their entry-level blend. Today I have for you a review of the Double Oak, which joined their core range a few years ago. It is so-called because it is a blend of spirit matured in American oak and French oak casks. What the proportion of the two in the blend is, I don’t know (I am assuming that it’s not all double-matured in the two cask types). Like in the Copper Pot, the spirit that goes into this is triple-distilled and is a blend of single pot still and single malt Irish whiskey. It gets a step-up in abv from the Copper Pot, being bottled at 46%. As with the Copper Pot, there is no indication of age. It’s probably safe to assume we’re not dealing with an abundance of age here. Okay, let’s see what it’s like.

Writers’ Tears, Double Oak (46%; from a miniature)

Nose: Orange peel, vanilla, polished oak. On the second sniff there’s some apricot and the vanilla moves in the direction of butterscotch. Not much change with time. A drop or two of water and there’s more citrus at first and then a metallic note. Continue reading →

Writers’ Tears, Copper Pot

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After exactly six weeks in Ireland—five of those in Dublin—we are headed back to Minnesota tomorrow. Regardless, I am going close the month out with an extended run of reviews of Irish whiskeys. Last week I reviewed a threesome from three different producers. Two were entry-level blends (The Irishman: The Harvest and the West Cork distillery’s Black Cask); and one was a peated single malt (W.D. O’Connell’s Bill Phil). This week’s whiskeys are all from the same producer. Walsh Whisky are the ones who put out the Irishman series. That series has quite a few releases in it at this point and the same is true of their better-known line, Writers’ Tears. I’ll be reviewing three from that line this week: the Copper Pot, which is their entry-level blend, bottled at 40%; the Double Oak, which steps up a bit in price and abv at 46%; and finally the Cask Strength, which is priced as a premium whiskey. First up, the Copper Pot. This is a blend of single pot still and single malt Irish whiskey, all of it distilled from barley. It’s all triple-distilled and unpeated and the maturation is in “flame charred” bourbon casks. No word on the likely age of the pot still and single malt constituents. Draw your own conclusions. Continue reading →

West Cork, Black Cask

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Irish Whiskey Week 2 has gone pretty well so far. On Monday I reviewed W.D. O’Connell’s Bill Phil, a peated whiskey that I quite liked. On Tuesday I reviewed a blend from Walsh Whiskey: The Irishman: The Harvest. While I didn’t give that one a very high score in the abstract, I thought it was very good for what it is: an entry-level blend. Here now is another entry-level blend. This one is from West Cork Distillers and unlike the other two, which are both sourced whiskeys, it is actually made by West Cork. Or so I assume anyway: they do have their own distillery and it produces a fairly large volume of spirit. As per their website, they have eight pot stills and two column stills and have the capacity to produce 4 million liters of spirit per year—though it’s less clear how much they actually produce. (They also bill themselves as the largest fully Irish-owned distillery in Ireland but that’s neither here nor there.) The Black Cask is comprised of 66% grain and 34% malt whiskey. It’s called the Black Cask because after three years of maturation in first-fill bourbon casks it spends another year in heavily charred bourbon casks. Quite a bit more grain in the blend than I would prefer and I’m always given pause by heavily charred bourbon casks and the potential for the contents to turn into vanilla bombs. Has that happened here or does the char tame the grain and youth? Let’s see. Continue reading →

The Irishman – The Harvest

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I quite enjoyed the first of this week’s trio of Irish whiskeys. That was yesterday’s Bill Phil from W.D. O’Connell. That was a heavily peated, single malt from an undisclosed distillery (probably Great Northern). Today I have a blended whiskey from Walsh Whiskey. Walsh Whiskey are blenders who produce two lines/brands: The Irishman and the more famous Writers’ Tears. I confess that I am not really sure what the distinction between the two lines is supposed to be. At any rate, there are a number of labels in each line. Currently, there seem to be six different iterations of The Irishman. Today I am reviewing what I think is the entry-level whiskey in the line: the Harvest. This is a blend of triple distilled whiskeys: 70% single malt and 30% single pot still, all matured in bourbon barrels. What the sources of the single malt and single pot still spirit that goes into the blend are, I don’t know. I don’t expect an entry-level blend to be anything very out of the ordinary but I am hoping that it won’t be extraordinarily bad. Let’s see. Continue reading →

Bill Phil, Peated Series (W.D. O’Connell)

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The last in last week’s series of madeira cask whiskies was a Teeling. It wasn’t the best of the week but I liked it. And so, even though my first week of Irish whiskeys this summer didn’t go so well (three other Teelings: here, here and here), I’ll take a chance with another week. This time it’s all whiskeys and producers I knew nothing about till I purchased these miniatures from the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin. First up, is something called Bill Phil from W.D. O’Connell. W.D. O’Connell are independent bottlers who release a wide range of sourced whiskeys under their own labels. Bill Phil—the name refers to someone in the owners’ family history—is a batched release of heavily peated, triple-distilled single malt whiskey. People who know more than me say the source is probably the Great Northern Distillery. Full bottles have the batch numbers printed on the labels. This miniature does not. The current batch is Batch 5. Seems likely, I guess, that this would be from that batch but it’s hard to say for sure. (Batch 4 was released in the US apparently.)  All the batches are matured in first-fill bourbon barrels. The peating level is all the way up to 55 ppm, by the way. Okay, let’s see what it’s like. Continue reading →

Teeling 18, Madeira Cask (for Binny’s)

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Madeira cask whisky got off to a very good start on Monday with an Inchmurrin 13 bottled by the SMWS. It took a step back on Wednesday with a 5 yo Kilchoman. Today I have for you a review of a whiskey as old as the other two put together. Will it end the week on a high note? On the one hand it was a Binny’s selection—usually a good sign. On the other hand, it’s a Teeling and my recent experiences with Teeling were not positive (see here, here, and here). Of course, those three whiskies from their core range have no necessary relationship with this one. Most of these Teeling releases are sourced whiskies. Well, I’m not sure about the miniature of the Single Malt that I reviewed: their own malt whiskey is of age to be bottled. But this 18 yo is definitely sourced as there was no Teeling distillery 18 (or 21) years ago (this was bottled in 2020 from a single cask). Nor do I know if this was a full-term maturation or a finish. I can tell you, though, what I think of it. Continue reading →

Kilchoman Madeira Cask, 2022

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This week’s whisky reviews are all of malts that were matured in madeira casks. I rather liked Monday’s Inchmurrin. Today we add some peat to the mix with the 2022 release of Kilchoman’s Madeira Cask. This is quite a bit younger than the 13 yo Inchmurrin, being just over five years of age. This is not one of Kilchoman’s 100% Islay releases and is peated to 50 ppm. There were 17,000 bottles released, which is why they call it a “limited edition”. As it happens, the last Kilchoman I reviewed was also from madeira casks—though in that case it was a finish and not a full-term maturation. Regardless, I quite liked that one. It was two years older than this one (and a single cask) but I thought it punched well above its age. This is a vatting of 46 fresh madeira hogsheads and it’s unlikely that they’d all be of equal quality. Let’s see if the averaging worked out well and if I like it as much as the previous. Continue reading →

Inchmurrin 13, 2007 (SMWS 112.82)

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Last week was a week of reviews of whiskies from distilleries in the highlands (Ben Nevis, Edradour and Clynelish). We’ll stay in the highlands to start this week, but only for a day. This week’s theme is whiskies matured or finished in madeira casks. First up is a 13 yo Inchmurrin (i.e fruity, unpeated Loch Lomond) that was bottled by the SMWS in a second-fill madeira hogshead. As far as I can make out, this was a full-term maturation. In the UK etc. this was given the name “I’ll beetroot to you”; in the US it was dubbed “Beat it”. Why not “Beet it”? Okay, let’s get to it.

Inchmurrin 13, 2007 (57.6%; SMWS 112.82; 2nd-fill madeira hogshead; from a bottle split)

Nose: Citrus (mix of lemon and orange peel) and oak off the top. After a minute the citrus expands and picks up some pineapple; the oak picks up some polish and there’s a slight metallic note and a leafy quality as well. As it sits there’s some pastry crust. With a bit of water it’s all about the orange peel and the polished oak. Continue reading →

Clynelish 11, 2011 (Single Malts of Scotland)

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This week of reviews of malts from Highlands distilleries has gone really well so far. I started with a 9 yo Ben Nevis on Monday. That was a single bourbon hogshead. I continued on Wednesday with a 10 yo Edradour. That was a single oloroso sherry cask. Let’s close out the week now with the oldest of the three, an 11 yo Clynelish. We’re back to bourbon maturation for this one, albeit in a barrel rather than a hogshead. I am hoping for good things—and trying not to think of the fact that I was not very impressed by the last bourbon barrel Clynelish I reviewed, especially since, like this one, that was also bottled by Single Malts of Scotland (though that one was a vatting of three barrels, not a single barrel). On the other hand, I really liked the one before that—coincidentally also an 11 yo—which I reviewed at the end of another week of Highlands reviews, almost exactly a year ago. Let’s see where this one falls. Continue reading →

Edradour 10, 2012 (for Spec’s)

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Highlands week began at Ben Nevis on Monday. It continues a little further east and south at Edradour. I had reviewed three Edradours in June of this year: two with sherry involvement (here and here) and one with marsala involvement (here). Today’s cask is a single oloroso sherry cask that was bottled for Spec’s in Texas. Let’s see what it’s like.

Edradour 10, 2012 (57.6%; for Spec’s; oloroso cask #2; from a bottle split)

Nose: Raisins, cola concentrate, roasted malt and that very Edradour nutty/beany complex. More of the roasted malt and the nuts with time. Water brings out some earthy notes but otherwise it’s pretty consistent

Palate: Comes in as predicted by the nose but sweeter. Approachable at full strength; good texture. Quite consistent as it sits; a little more salt maybe. With more time it gets a bit spicy—some pepper, some oak grip. Water emphasizes the spice, pulls out a bit of dried orange peel and pushes the sweeter notes back. Continue reading →