I still have five or so reports from Seoul/Busan to come. But before I get to the next of those, here’s the first report from my recent short trip to New Jersey/New York in mid-May. I was there for just a few nights. I had a packed schedule but managed to see friends for meals on each day. The first of those was dinner in New York City a few hours after arrival. I met an old high school friend at an Indian restaurant in the West Village. I had wanted to try one of the city’s better Indian restaurants. We’d originally hoped to eat at Dhamaka but they seemed to be closed for a private event—at any rate not a single table was available all evening. As we batted around options, location and timing became the chief constraints. Which is how we ended up at Bombay Bistro on Cornelia St., a restaurant I’d never previously heard of and he’d never been to, and which, as far as I could tell from their website, was a regulation curry house—a genre of Indian restaurant in the US that I am usually not interested in. Here’s how it went. Continue reading
Monthly Archives: May 2024
Kim’s (Minneapolis, MN)
The business calculus involved in opening any expensive restaurant is complex. It is all the more so in the US for restaurateurs/chefs seeking to feature the foods of a cuisine that isn’t very prominent in the market they want to open a restaurant in; especially when the market, broadly speaking, still does not have a very sophisticated understanding of non-mainstream cuisines (in most parts of the US, this would be anything other than American, Italian and Mexican cuisines). The market I am most interested in, obviously, is Minnesota, specifically the Twin Cities metro. This is a region in which, in the year 2024, many East Asian groceries of one kind or the other still bill themselves as “Oriental” and where even in food-centered groups on Facebook requests for recommendations for Chinese restaurants routinely receive responses that list Thai or Vietnamese restaurants (or vice versa). This is not to say that there are not a lot of restaurants in the Twin Cities that specialize in the cuisines of different parts of Asia; merely that these remain largely marginal and outside the purview of the prominent food media outlets that disseminate knowledge of the local scene. Continue reading
Foursquare 12, Master Series 2 (for Total Wine)
Here’s another saved sample from a bottle split. This is not a whisky but a rum. And it’s a partner to the last rum I reviewed. That one was the third of three store bottlings of Foursquare I reviewed in February, the first of the so-called Master Series releases for Total Wine, the major American booze chain (the other two were bottled for the LCBO in Canada and the Whisky Exchange in the UK). The first Master Series release was a blend of three 12yo rums aged in bourbon and sherry casks. So was the second, but the Total Wine pre-arrival page listed a little more information for this one: it was put together from one rum matured full-term in ex-bourbon barrels, one double matured rum that spent three years in ex-bourbon barrels and nine in ex-oloroso casks, and one that spent 10 years in ex-bourbon barrels and two in ex-oloroso casks. How many total casks there were or what the ratio of cask types was, I do not know. I do know that I liked the first one a lot. My notes below may make it seem like I tasted them alongside, but in fact, they were recorded many months apart—I merely referred to the first set for comparison while writing the second. Anyway, let’s get to it. Continue reading
Three Meals in Busan (Korea, Feb-March 2024)
Okay, it’s been more than two weeks since my last report from Korea. That was of a very pleasant morning spent at Mangwon Market in Seoul. Today’s report takes us out of Seoul for the second time (the first was of a meal near the DMZ), all the way to Busan. We took a fast train down to Busan at the end of February and spent a couple of nights there. It was a pretty hit-and-run trip and we didn’t really get a good feel for the city but enough to know that we’d like to come back again (and we almost certainly will in the spring of 2026). All our meals in the city were affairs of convenience and so rather than posting about each of them separately, I’m putting up a combo post that covers our first three meals out (breakfast was eaten at our somewhat functional hotel). The only solo report will be of our last meal in the city, which was eaten at the Jagalchi fish market. That’ll go up next week, probably, with a prolonged look at the market as well. Continue reading
Restaurant Alma XI, Spring 2024 (Minneapolis)
Here is a quick report on the second of two meals we ate at Alma in a span of just over two weeks. The first meal was one of our regular meals out. The missus and I ate one of the last outings of Alma’s winter 2024 menu (and enjoyed it very much indeed). 16 days later we were back with a much larger group and this time we ate one of the earliest outings of the current spring menu. This was a retirement dinner for one of my colleagues and in keeping with his long service and the high regard in which we hold him we decided to throw him a farewell dinner at a fine restaurant in the Twin Cities. Alma was at the top of our wishlist and as it happened there was no other restaurant that could have accommodated our group as comfortably as they did. And the food was not half bad either. Continue reading
Ben Nevis 18, 1995 (The Whisky Agency)
Next up in my “Open ’em and drink ’em” campaign is an 18-year old Ben Nevis. This was distilled in 1995 and matured in a refill bourbon hogshead till 2013, when it was bottled by the boutique German independent bottler, The Whisky Agency. As I haven’t followed the whisky world closely in some years now, I had to look at Whiskybase to confirm that The Whisky Agency are still around—though they don’t seem to be releasing quite as much as they once did (if this is an incorrect impression, please write in below to correct me). I remember when, along with fellow German concern, Malts of Scotland, The Whisky Agency were one of the most reliable, most prolific and, it must be said, one of the more expensive (and yet sought after) bottlers. Of course, what seemed like high prices 10-15 years ago would seem like utter bargains in this insane market. My spreadsheet tells me I paid $92 for this 18 yo in 2015. That’s another way the market was different, of course: bottles from this single hogshead from a name bottler hung around for almost two years. Anyway, after sitting on the bottle for almost 10 years, I opened it a week ago. I enjoyed the first few pours very much and now it’s time for some notes. Continue reading
Tea House III (Minneapolis)
At the end of my last review of Tea House, the Twin Cities’ OG Sichuan restaurant, I noted that it would likely be less than three years—the time elapsed since the prior review—till we came back to eat there again. Well, that was in the spring of 2018. In my defense, the years of the high pandemic had something to do with many of my review plans/promises of that period not being kept. It’s also true that when we get on Highway 35 to go north for Sichuan food it’s very difficult to not get off at Exit 6 and head to Grand Szechuan instead of driving for another 20 minutes. In the interim, however, Jon Cheng—the Star Tribune’s restaurant critic and one of the few professionals in the area who doesn’t seem to think his main job is to be a booster—named Tea House the best Chinese restaurant in the metro. That was in 2022. We’ve been meaning to get there ever since to see if very dramatic changes had happened since our last visit. Well, we finally got there this past weekend. Here’s how it went. Continue reading
Lagavulin 11, Offerman Edition, Rum Finish
This whisky is obviously not from the stash of long-accumulated bottles that I am supposed to be opening, drinking and reviewing these days on the blog. It’s just that I wasn’t able to keep myself from picking up a bottle when I saw it at our local Costco last week. I’ve quite enjoyed the preceding Offerman Editions of Lagavulin 11 and so it seemed to be a good bet. As you may recall, the very first Offerman Edition—which was released in 2019, I think—did not have any cask complications associated with it. The second edition—which came out in 2021, I think—received a Guinness cask finish. Meanwhile, the third edition featured maturation in casks that had been shaved down and re-charred. I didn’t like the third one quite as much as the first two but all have been interesting variations on the Lagavulin profile and not gratuitous celebrity cash-ins. The fourth edition—only just released in the US—sees the whisky get a rum finish for eight months. Let’s see how it compares to the others. Continue reading
In and Around Mangwon Market (Seoul, March 2024)
I’ve fallen a little behind on my goal of getting all my Seoul reports done by the middle of May. Okay, quite a bit behind. I’m going to try to catch up in a hurry though. Here first is a very image-heavy look at one of our favourite market outings in the city in early March, to Mangwon Market. Like Cheongnyangni Market, Mangwon Market is a traditional farmers’ market, which is to say it is a market where locals go to shop—though it’s quite a bit smaller than Cheongnyangni Market. Located in Mapo-gu, it’s more off the tourist map than Gwangjang Market, Namdaemun Market and Tongin Market—or Noryangjin Fish Market, for that matter. It’s a covered market and once you’re in it, the alleys are lined with cooked food vendors of various kinds. We visited on a Saturday morning and had a very nice time walking slowly through the crowded market, stopping to eat snacks along the way. We also bought some prepared foods to take away with us for dinner and some fresh seafood to cook in the upcoming week. And then as we were leaving the market we couldn’t resist stopping at a small restaurant for some noodle soup and mandu. Here is a look at it all. Continue reading
Bowmore 15, 1992 (Douglas Laing)
No, I haven’t already rolled back my commitment to slow the pace of my whisky reviewing and to restrict it only to bottles that have lain unopened for years in my stash. It’s only that I still have a few samples left over from before I left for Bombay in early January and I may as well get through all of them as well. And so here’s a Bowmore 15. This was distilled in 1992 and bottled in 2007 from a refill hogshead by Douglas Laing in their Old Malt Cask series. Back when this came out a lot of whisky geeks were still very wary about Bowmores distilled in the early 1990s. This was on account of the proximity to the long problematic preceding decade at the distillery. As I’ve noted before on the blog, my random sampling suggests that by the early 1990s most of those problems had been worked out. Indeed, I’ve had quite a few rather nice indie Bowmores distilled in the early 1990s. That’s not to say, of course, that there aren’t casks from that period that still bore/bear traces of the major problems of the distillate in the 1980s, particularly a strong soapy note. Let’s hope this cask is not one of those. When teenaged bourbon cask Bowmore is good it’s very good indeed, with that unique mix of smoke, fruit, florals and coastal notes. Let’s see where this one falls on the spectrum. Continue reading
April/May 2024
Now that I have made changes to my posting activity on the blog, I may as well also change the nature of my month-opening posts. Unlike in the past, I will no longer have long lists of potential whisky reviews for you to help me narrow down to 10-12. The whisky/booze reviews will be what they will be, based on what catches my fancy when I’m down in the whisky lair looking for a new bottle to open. So if you’re still interested in my whisky reviews, each week’s review will be a surprise. What I’m going to do instead, going forward, in these first-of-the-month posts is give you a glimpse at what was popular, or at least what was read a lot in the previous month on the blog. In other words, a look at my navel. In this particular case, April 2024 was, in terms of both page views and unique visitors, the busiest month in the blog’s history. Almost 21,000 unique visitors loaded almost 100,000 pages (yes, yes, I know, these aren’t particularly impressive numbers in the abstract). What were they looking at? Continue reading